The Best Of Everything Don Vargo's Latest Food at informal Longshots Bar 6- Grill is good and affordable. *for NEW YEAR'S EVE featuring 0, Sonny Turner Syr and THE PLATTERS OPEN BAR! GOURMET DINNER! DANCING! FAVORS! sp5perN- 4 4, person AUBURN HILLS Letti's of Auburn Hills, 885 Opdyke by at Vargo's and 1940 Chop House. ri.9 resemblance to two of his But there is a delicious 16-ounce former restaurants is not only choice New York strip steak with baked very improbable ... but, in potato and Caesar salad (or plain salad) fact, absolutely non-existent. .... for only $10 ... And Surf and Turf, You won't find any bottles of 1929 lamb chops or steak with lobster tail or Chateau Mouton-Rothschild wine ... salmon, baked potato and Or a $15,000 bottle of 1870 Caesar salad ... for just $12. Chateau Lafitte-Rothschild ... Not on the menu but avail- Or a splendid wine cellar with able on the six days that about 10,000 bottles of rare Longshots is open ... burgundies and Bordeaux Monday-Saturday, 11:30 to 2 vinos such as Don Vargo had p.m. ... with its kitchen open at his Vargo's on West until 10 p.m. ... is Cajun McNichols in Detroit from chicken Caesar salad, salmon 1970 to 1980. Caesar salad, stir-fried Cajun There's no lavish display of DAN NY shrimp Caesar salad, crab cognacs like at his 1940 Chop RAS KIN cakes, boneless and skinless House on East Jefferson, from Local Columnist breast of chicken, lemon 1985 to 1992. chicken, and a lot more ... at Don't even look for white prices you won't believe ... tablecloths or linen napkins Double-baked potato, asparagus ... You won't find any. hearts, garlic toast, too. What you will find, though, is a lot Even wines like a fine Merlot or of good food ... at low prices that will Chardonnay are only $3.50 a six-ounce absolutely amaze you ... at Vargo's glass ... Not $6.50 or more for a five- clean Longshots Bar & Grill on Grand ounce pour that one may get elsewhere. River, a couple of blocks east of Vargo's sat 300 people ... many who Inkster, in Redford. came from all over because of Don's very Seating is for 130 on two levels ... extensive wine list ... and because it was 90 in the main dining room, 20 at the the "in" place of those days. bar, 20 in the poolroom with three There are no booths at Longshots billiard tables ... It's a fun place, too, with red-crumbled velvet or Austrian with three dart machines and a golf valances like at Vargo's ... But the machine. same grade of food ... and same There is no Billy Rose prices as 1974. Quartet like at Vargo's for There are crab cakes four years ... and at the with fresh garlic toast and 1940 Chop House over Caesar salad, $9 ... three years ... Don Broiled salmon with does have karaoke on baked potato and Tuesdays and danc- Caesar salad, S7 ... ing to a deejay Broiled lamb chops Wednesdays through with baked potato Saturdays. and Caesar salad, $10. There's no waiting Don's 1940 Chop ... yet ... on Saturday House was the only nights, like days gone A RESERVATIONS NOW TAKE Y Restaurateur Don Vargo Road,Auburn Hills, (248) 373-4440. The second of Lelli's traditionally fine Italian ristorantes is located across from the Pontiac Silverdome. Besides elegant sur- roundings, it features the same excellent food served by the Lelli family since 1939. Reservations are accepted for any evening except Saturday. BERKLEY Sila, 4033 W. 12 Mile Road, Berkley, (248) 548-3650.There is nothing like a consis- tently dependable neighborhood family restaurant.The Italian and American menu is one that evokes much confidence in casual dining.The chicken, ribs, round and square pizzas, fish, salad, pasta, etc. are served seven days a week for lunch and dinner. Everything is also available for carry-out BLOOMFIELD HILLS Steve's Deli, 6646 Telegraph Road, Bloomfield Hills, (248) 932-0800. Award- winning chicken soup is featured. Also serving corned beef, fresh roasted turkey, sandwiches, salads and traditional dishes. Party trays and catering too at this New York-style deli. Carnegie Deli cheesecake and Steve's Brownies are among the desserts. FARMINGTON HILLS Bangkok Sala Cafe, 27903 Orchard Lake Road, Orchard-I 2 Plaza, Farmington Hills, (248) 553-4220.Tropical and tradi- tional Thai dishes are served from the over-50 items of freshly prepared lunch and dinner dishes. including vegetarian and children favorites. Open seven days a week for dine in and carry-out. Desert Sands, 29222 Orchard Lake Road, Farmington Hills, (248) 855-1122. Middle-Eastern dining is featured by Hassan Bazzi, former maitre d' at the Original Sheik in downtown Detroit. Daily specials at lunch and dinner. Full menu carryout with catering available. Complete liquor service. Intelligent Chicken, 32431 Northwestern Hwy., Farmington Hills, (248) 855-4455.The wide variety of spe- cialty items are together with a complete menu of charbroiled or rotisserie chicken for both dining in the 40-seater area, and carry-out, seven days a week. Soups, chili. salads and side dishes are homemade. Also homemade are the popular cookies and brownies. Marvin's Marvelous Mechanical Museum, 31005 Orchard Lake Road, Farmington Hills, (248) 626-5020. One magazine said that there was no place like it in the country.The Guinness Book of Records has featured its accomplishments. Lunch and snacks are available with table seating amidst video games. antiques, nos- DINING GUIDE on page 104 11/3 2000 100 411000000001110