PRIYA

INDIAN CUISINE

****Detroit Free Press

"I can't wait to go back!"
-Molly Abraham, Oakland Press

Left:
Lulav shopping
in Mea
Shearim.

Below:
Bargaining for
etrogim begins
as Sukkot
approaches in
Mea Shearim.

This is an illustration of Sukkot,
the Hebrew name of the Feast
of Tabernacles.

ETROG from page 101

all kinds of holders and boxes for
the etrog in a variety of materials.
These include gold, silver and less
precious metals, and wood, ivory,
meerschaum and porcelain. Today,
this trend continues with etrog
boxes also appearing in lucite,
plastic and other synthetic materials.
Other characteristics of the ideal
etrog are a bumpy skin, a symmetri-
cal, oblong shape and no dark
spots or blemishes on the top third
of the fruit. Some etrogim come to
market slightly or partly green. This
is acceptable for ritual purposes.
Some people actually prefer a
green etrog. Shoppers occasionally
; find etrogim that are smooth and
round, but most rabbis agree that
such fruits should not be used for rit-
ual purposes.
Preferences as to factors such as
size, shape and color often depend
on family tradition, or minhag.
An etrog these days can cost any-
: where from S20 to S60, depend-
ing on its variety, condition and
beauty. In the days of the Mishnah
and Talmud, this wasn't usually the
case. Etrog orchards flourished in
Eretz Yisrael, the land of Israel, and
1 so were relatively inexpensive. The
exception was a particularly beauti-
ful etrog, which might cost the
"price of three meals," according to
the Talmud.

The first of these is the small strain,
(the end opposite the stem to which
which is grown most extensively in
the fruit is attached to the tree).
'Israel and, therefore, is most popu-
If the pitom falls off or breaks off
One question has for thousands of
lar in the United States.
1 the etrog, especially on the first day
years
challenged the Jewish commu-
Yemenite families, however, may
of Sukkot, the etrog is no longer
nity: what do you do with the etrog
prefer the larger strain of etrog,
Kosher. A pitom, however, is not
once
Sukkot is over? Some use it to
which their ancestors brought to the
always essential. There are varieties
make jams; others pierce its skin
I land of Israel generations ago.
of etrogim that grow without a
with
cloves and hang it in a closet,
The etrog also comes in two Ha-
1 pitom, and those are perfectly
for use as a pomander.
i vors, so to speak: the sweet and
kosher. In fact, there are some pea-
Long ago, the Talmud says, Jews
the sour.
1 ple who prefer the variety without a
tried pickling the thick peel, or boil-
Most citrus farmers grow trees
pitom.
ing it down and then eating it. Oth-
grafted onto the root stock of other
To protect the etrog and its fragile
ers managed to squeeze a few
varieties, which makes for a healthier
pitom, growers prepare the fruit for
1
drops from the skin and used the
plant. Etrogim used for Jewish ritual
shipment by wrapping it in thick
fluid to make a perfume. This same
purposes, however, must come from
skeins of flax. Most retailers offer
extract
was believed to be an anti-
lungrafted trees only.
etrogim still wrapped in flax and
dote for snakebites. An ancient
A key issue is the appearance, or
ready to take home in a white card-
superstition
has it that if a pregnant
lack of, the pitom, a thick, short pis- 1 board box. Through the ages,
woman bites into an etrog, she will
: til at the blossom end of the fruit
artists and craftsmen have devised
give birth to a boy. ❑

From mild to hot, enjoy India's Southern,
Northern and Tandoori Cuisines

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PRIYA IN FARMINGTON HILLS

36600 Grand River (West of Drake)

MEETING & BANQUET FACILITIES

248 615 7700
ORIGINAL PRIYA IN TROY
72 West Maple (at Livernois Rd.)
OPEN DAILY FOR LUNCH & DINNER

I Coupon good at either PRIYA
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restaurant through 10/26/00
I $10 OFF DINNER FOR TWO I
I Lunch buffet & take-out excluded I

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102