INSIDE: Let's Go Koshering 98 food health the scene Everyday Heroics With Diabetes 100 sports travel Must limes Great traditional and not-so-traditional High Holiday fitvorites from good cooks around town. ANNABEL COHEN ring frequently. Toss the beans, peppers and mushrooms with a lit- tle salt and pepper and top with the almond mixture. Makes 8 servings. Special to the Jewish News eople are very territorial when it comes to holiday cooking. Farmington Hills' Ada Walt is what you would call a bal- labuste — a great homemaker. And those who know her know and love her gefilte fish. She relates this interesting and telling story: When her children were small, her son and his friend insisted that their mother's gefilte fish was better than the other's. So one holiday, the mothers traded fish and promised to be honest with their opinions. "We exchanged pieces of fish, mine a darker, golden color and hers snow white. The next day my neighbor came to my house and said, 'I have to be honest. Your fish was terrible.' And I thought her fish was tasteless, bland, like mashed potatoes." You don't have to search hard to come up with your own version of this story. Just change the fish for soup, matza balls, brisket, kugel and add your own adjectives: too sweet, too much pepper, too hard, too soft. Which goes back to the fact that people are territorial when it comes to holiday cooking. And not just about what tastes good to them. What you eat for the holidays tells more about you than you can imagine. Very sweet fish means most likely your ancestors were from Poland, where many people ate fish sweeter than in, say, Russia. Go down the list of what you're serving and most likely each item has to do with the climate, country LOIS WALTS' CREAM CHEESE MASHED POTATOES from Debbie Colman, Bloomfield Hills 8 large Idaho or russet potatoes, about 4 pounds 8 ounces cream cheese 1/2 cup sour cream 1/4 pound (1 stick) butter salt and pepper to taste milk as needed Julie Schlafer prepares her special kugel. and availability of ingredients of where your grandmother or great- grandmother lived. The following are appetizer and side-dish recipes loved by local families. Though they haven't been officially tested, they've been pleas- ing hundreds of hungry eaters for years. FRENCH GREEN BEANS WITH PEPPERS, MUSH- ROOMS AND SEASONED ALMONDS from Cheryl Rasansky, West Bloomfield Topping: 3 Tbsp. margarine 1/2 cup slivered almonds 1-2 tsp. Moir's Epicurean Secret Seasoning, or to taste Vegetables: 1 pound frozen French style green beans, thawed 3 Tbsp. margarine 1 bell pepper, julienne cut or cut into matchsticks 8 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced kosher salt and pepper to taste Make topping: Melt 3 tablespoons margarine in a medium skillet. Add almonds and stir to coat. Before serving, pour over the top of the beans. Cook or microwave beans accord- ing to package directions. While the beans are cooking, melt the other margarine in a large skillet. Add the mushrooms and cook until just softened. Add the peppers and cook for a few minutes more, stir- Preheat oven to 350F. Fill a large pot half-full with cold water and a teaspoon of salt. Bring the water to a boil over high heat as you prepare the potatoes. Peel the potatoes and cut them into large chunks. Place the cut potatoes in the pot and bring the water to a boil again. Lower heat slightly and cook potatoes until tender. Drain the potatoes very well and allow them to stand for about 3 minutes before whipping or mashing them with the remaining ingredients. Spoon the potatoes into a casse- role or baking dish, smoothing the top only slightly and bake for 45 to 50 minutes. Sprinkle with paprika and dot with butter and serve. If you wish, you can make the potatoes up to a day in advance and bake just before serving. Makes 12 servings. GEFILTE FISH MOLD from Lorraine Lerner, West Bloomfield "This is the fish recipe I make for every holiday. It is adapted from a local cookbook and is attributed to Tillie Brandwine. I now use a