Ian ty's Premier Lifestyle Magazine Food Tisha b'Av is a fast day with strong food traditions. ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News icken and Vegetable Stir Fry I hate to admit this, but until recently I really didn't know the significance of Tisha b'Av. Little did I know that Tisha b'Av has several elements in common Yom Kippur, the Jewish Day of Atonement. Like Yom Kippur, among the many prescribed restrictions for the day of Tisha b'Av, with few excep- tions, Jews must abstain from wash- - ing clothing, wearing leather, studying Torah, working, bathing and shaving. And like Yom Kippur, Tisha b'Av is a day of fasting. So what does fasting have to do with food? Before refraining from eat- ing, there is usually a final meal that's both symbolic and appropriate for the solemn nature of the holiday. Why do we fast at all? Because Tisha b'Av, literally the ninth day of the month of Av (this year, the fast begins before sundown Wednesday, Aug. 9), marks the end of a three week period of mourning (which also begins with a fast, on the 17th of Tamuz). On this day in history, the ninth of Av, the first and second temples in Jerusalem were destroyed. And the expulsion of Jews from Spain in 1492 began on the ninth of Av. The fast is a national symbol of all the tragedies of the Jewish people, and marks the mood of extreme mourning to remember these calami- ties. (See Cover Story in AppleTree, page 103) While the three weeks before Tisha b'Av are a time of mourning, the nine days just preceding the holiday are considered even more austere. Consider that on these nine days, Jews must refrain from eating meat and drinking wine, except on Shabbat, since these are normally served on festive occasions. What's more, on erev Tisha b'Av, some Jews observe the custom of eat- ing round foods — rolls and eggs for V") ax • example — sprinkled with ashes. Like the first meal served after a Jewish funeral, round foods symbolize eterni- ty and the continuation of life. Preparation for the meal before the fast, known as the Seudah HaMafiekat, begins before food is served. A low table, such as a coffee table, is often used as a dining table. Diners usually sit on the floor or on low stools, as is done during a shiva period. What do many Jews serve instead of meat? During the nine days before Tisha b'Av, fowl is a common entree in many observant households. The following recipes use fowl, fish and eggs, which are all acceptable during the nine days. During this time, consider serving the rounds foods that are also so sym- bolic of this period of remembrance.