to carve out time and clear out the
mental clutter. Attitude and relaxation
in a sacredspace are the biggest chal-
lenges," she notes.
T
he number and variety of
vegetarian cookbooks on
the market show just how
appealing and accessible
non-meat eating has become. Katzen
likes to tell the story of a Nashville
taxi driver who sighed when he
heard she wrote vegetarian cook-
books.
"Sorry, that's not my thing," she
recalls him saying. "I need my meat at
least once a day." With a quick mental
calculation, she responded, "Well,
then, my recipes are for your other
two meals."
The cabbie liked that idea; Katzen
sent his wife a book, and seven weeks
later, got a note from her, saying her
husband loved her soup recipes and
even ate a vegetable pie.
She herself was introduced to
vegetarian cooking at 12, when she
was invited to dinner at a friend's
whose mother had a vegetable gar-
den. She worked through high
school flipping frozen hamburgers
and turning out batches of french
fries at the lunch counter of a
department store. Then, in her col-
lege cafeteria, of all places, she
became "infatuated" with vegetables
that were "fresh, wonderful and
abundant."
Searching for ways to cook interesting
non-meat dishes, she found a job at a
small macrobiotic restaurant and discov-
ered the beauty of legumes and grains.
She began an illustrated notebook filled
with ideas, never thinking it would ever
coalesce into a real cookbook.
After a stint at another restaurant in
San Francisco, her brother and a friend
invited her to join them in opening
the Moosewood Restaurant in Ithaca,
N.Y., in 1973. Much of the cooking
was done by feel, not by recipe.
To standardize some of the cook-
ing, she wrote down versions of what
was being prepared. Customers began
asking for recipes, and she offered
them a small, hand-lettered, 78-page,
spiral-bound cookbook, funded by a
small loan from a local bookstore. She
hesitated to seek wider publication
because it seemed too commercial.
Still, she approached a few publish-
ers, and one major house was interest-
ed, but insisted she would have to get
rid of the whimsical drawings and hand
lettering. Only Ten Speed Press offered
complete artistic and editorial freedom
— and the rest is culinary history.
Though her name will ever be
entwined with Moosewood, she sold
the restaurant in 1979 and today is
completely separate. Her cooking has
become both simpler and more
sophisticated, relying less on dairy and
eggs to fill stom-
achs than on
"Enchanted
"straight-from-
Broccoli Forest"
the-garden"
cemented Katzen's
ingredients.
reputation as a
'A drizzle of
key player in the
extra
virgin olive
transformation
oil, a sprinkling
of American
of crunchy
eating habits.
designer salt, a
grind of fresh
black pepper and voila," she says.
She describes herself today as
motivated, hopeful and loving, and
calls compassion, strength, beauty and
humor her "beacons." She is a wife
and mother of two children: Sam, 15,
who specializes in dips, and Eve, 9,
who likes to spin salads and bake cup-
cakes. Both like to make soups and
blender shakes, although their interests
focus on music and dance.
Katzen's future projects include a
breakfast book with more than 300
recipes, scheduled for fall 2001; devel-
oping a line of kosher, organic prod-
ucts; and creating a children's food
show for public television.
She was selected as a charter mem-
ber and the only cookbook author of
the Harvard School of Public Health's
Nutrition Roundtable, espouses envi-
ronmental causes and judges the James
Beard and Julia Child cooking awards.
"Make a commitment to enjoy and
embrace food as a positive force,"
Katzen advises, hard as it is for
women. "Meditate, exercise and
breathe. Slow down around food,
choose it wisely, but eat enough. Learn
to let food be love for-yourself." ❑
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