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PARTY ON
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"Moosewood Cookbook" author says her Judaism
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7

kets and looking for the freshest, most
interesting ingredients, then combining
those that make "sensual sense."
"Something intuitive tells me if a
recipe is good enough or not," she
explains.
Testing recipes is a "precise and
clinical" skill, so she doesn't experi-
ment on her family, choosing instead

he first family meal Mollie
Katzen ever cooked by herself
hardly fulfilled her current
vision of "vegetarian heaven,"
as she named one of her cookbooks: It
was a broiled flank steak, a package of
french-cut green beans and Minute
Rice. Well, OK, she was only 10.
Growing up on the miracle
convenience foods of the 1950s
and '60s — Campbell's soups and
Velveeta cheese — her choice of
menu was not surprising. Nor did
she imagine she would one day
help refashion American cooking
with dishes from mushroom
moussaka to polenta pie.
In her youth, she dreamed
instead of simultaneous careers in
piano, art and writing. Today,
however, her six vegetarian cook-
books, topped by the classic
Moosewood Cookbook, have close
to 4 million copies in print, and
she has been named one of the 10
best-selling cookbook authors of
all time by the New York Times.
Last year, she was named, along
with Julia Child, Alice Waters,
Deborah Madison and Martha
Stewart, one of the five "women
who changed the way we eat" by
Health magazine.
Mollie Katzen: The challenges ofiewish
"Food means life to me," says
cooking, she says, are the universal challenges
the 49-year-old from her home in of cooking today: to make it healthier, and
Berkeley, Calif. "I treasure my role more importantly, have it happen at all
in my own family as the 'feeder,'
though I also like to be fed."
to solicit feedback only from assistants
Her kitchen window overlooks a
who are skilled culinary professionals.
canyon and forest, but inside, it is
While she creates "sesame carrots
small and cozy. No hanging pots and
on a bed of soft cabbage" or "pumpkin
pans here — just a good set of knives
mousse with gingersnap crumbs" for
and a great food processor, a 50-year-
her books, she feeds herself and her
old dishwasher, 50-year-old oven and
family simple foods like stir-fried veg-
a modest gas cooktop.
etables and tofu with grains, pasta and
Despite the economy of space and
vegetables, soups and salads.
her intentions to remodel, Katzen's
She loves ethnic food, prepares an
kitchen is her laboratory, where she
Indian meal about once a week —
writes and tests hundreds of recipes her-
usually a curry with lots of vegetables,
self, sometimes five or six times each.
potatoes
and chickpeas — and occa-
The inspiration for her ideas often
sionally
eats
a small amount of fish or
springs from visiting local farmers' mar-
chicken.
Her culinary inventiveness started
Rahel Musleah is a New York-based
COOKIN' on page 80
freelance writer.