The Best Of Everything

A Tough Business

AL MARTINO

Sat., Sept. 304:

DON ICKLES

Wed., & Thurs., Oct. 25 & 26

EWA

Celebrity Showroom

40

7096 East Fourteen Mile Road

(B(tween Mound &Van Dyke)

• (810) 268-3200

Dennis Horwatt, formerly with Stouffer's, recalls
1970s restaurants and wonders why places fail.

good life. It's a throwback, I guess, to
ennis Horwatt, head of
sitting around the cave fire and roast-
PRMI Marketing & Public
ing mastodon. Happiness is a full
Relations, writes ... "Recent
belly.
stories in the news have
"My plateful of memories on win-
discussed the perils and risks of restau-
ing and dining in Detroit began when
rant ownership. Super chef Jimmy
Stouffer's Hotels and Restaurants
Schmidt, for example, has had
lured me back here in 1972
all but one of his many restau-
from New York, where I was
rants close. Here's a guy who
with Rodney Dangerfield's
has spent most of his working
(aka Jack Roy) Manhattan
life in restaurants, yet he can't
nightclub.
make a go of it. Imagine the
"Working for Rodney
money lost. Why so many
was a hoot, but now I
people with the means, but
would represent Stouffer's
with no experience, decide to
properties from Detroit to
open restaurants, is a curious
Chicago — 12 hotels and
thing. Is it ego? I'm sure that's
D ANNY
restaurants in all. Can you
one of the reasons. I guess
RA SKIN
name their six Detroit-area
everyone would once in a
Local Columnist properties of the 1970s? For
while like to be Rik in his
many years, they were some
American Cafe in Casablanca.
of the
. highest-producing stores in
Order drinks for the gendarme and
Stouffer's nationwide chain.
tell Sam to 'play it again.' You're the
"They were, from east to west:
boss. It's fun, romantic stuff.
Stouffer's Eastland Center in Harper
"Of course, the truth is - restaura-
Woods, Top of the Flame and
teurs must work incredibly long hours
Stouffer's Washington Boulevard in
and be extremely gifted in cost control
downtown Detroit, Northland Inn's
and people management. Forget about
Coach and Four in Southfield,
the recipes and menu. Anyone can
Stouffer's Northland restaurant across
grill a steak and put it on a plate.
the street and a new prototype con-
Getting it to the customer consistently cept called Eden Glen in Troy.
and cost effectively is the tricky part.
"The Washington Boulevard loca-
"Though I've had around 30 years
tion, the only one wholly owned by
of experience managing, promoting
and marketing restaurants
and hotels, I have never had
the desire to be an owner.
The investment, risks and
downsides are just too great.
"When I was general man-
ager for Chuck Muer (an
amazing, charismatic individ-
ual who was a master mar-
keter) at the Top of the
Pontchartrain in the late '70s,
I recall times when bad
weather would hit and we'd
lose several evenings of busi-
ness. The thousands of dol-
lars lost were gone forever. I
was grateful it wasn't my
money.
"But still there is magic in
those joints we like to haunt.
There is nothing quite equal
to breaking bread with
friends and , sharing a bottle
of wine while toasting the
Dennis Horwatt

D

G id

AUBURN HILLS

Lelli's of Auburn Hills, 885 Opdyke
Road,Auburn Hills, (248) 373-4440.The
second of Lelli's traditionally fine Italian ris-
torantes is located across from the Pontiac
Silverdome, Besides elegant surroundings, it
features the same excellent food served by
the Lelli family since 1939. Reservations
are accepted for any evening except
Saturday.

BERKLEY

Sib., 4033 W.12 Mile Road, Berkley, (248)

548-3650. There is nothing like a consis-
tently dependable neighborhood family
restaurant The Italian and American menu
is one that evokes much confidence in
casual dining,The chicken, ribs, round and
square pizzas, fish, salad, pasta, etc. are
served seven days a week for lunch and
dinner, Everything is also available for
carry-out.

BLOOMFIELD HILLS

Steve's Deli, 6646 Telegraph Road,

Bloomfield Hills, (248) 932-0800. Award-
winning chicken soup is featured.Also
serving corned beef, fresh roasted turkey,
sandwiches, salads and traditional dishes.
Party trays and catering too at this New
York-style deli. Carnegie Deli cheesecake
and Steve's Brownies are among the
desserts.

FARMINGTON HILLS

Desert Sands, 29222 Orchard Lake

Road, Farmington Hills, (248) 855-1122.
Middle Eastern dining is featured by
Hassan Bazzi, former maitre d' at the
Original Sheik in downtown Detroit Daily
specials at lunch and dinner. Full menu
carryout with catering available. Complete
liquor service.

Intelligent Chicken, 32431
Northwestern Hwy., Farmington Hills,
(248) 855-4455 The wide variety of spe-
cialty items are together with a complete
menu of charbroiled or rotisserie chicken
for both dining in the 40-seater area and
carry-out, seven days a week. Soups, chili,
salads and side dishes are homemade Also
homemade are the popular cookies and
brownies.

Marvin's Marvelous Mechanical
ttluseum, 31005 Orchard Lake Road,

17mington Hills, (248) 626-5020. One
agazine said that there was no place like
country.The Guinness Book of
featured its accomplishments.
ichaEd snacks are available with table
irig amidst *. ideo games, antiques, nos-
posters, miniature airplanes.
IktiOinrcient attractions, pinball
Ines, etc. It is open seven days a

-

Vineyards Cafe & Catering, 32418

Northwestern Hwy., Farmington Hills,
t (248) 855-9463.This is a many-faceted
type of operation. Nibbles and Nuts at

DINING GUIDE on page 90

