Food For ThouGht Have Your Cheesecake, However you like it, we've sot a great recipe for you. Annabel Cohen Special to AppleTree if we need another reason o eat cheesecake. There's a reason our houses explode with flowers and we eat dairy foods like cheesecakes and blintzes on Shavuot. It has to do with Moses and the Torah and the count- ing of the Omer. The Ben Hayoun family doesn't normally eat much dairy on a daily basis. Except on Shavuot. "In general we eat almost no dairy," said Rachael Ben Hayoun, manager of Sperber's Gourmet Delight. It's located in West Bloom- field's Whole Foods Market, which offers gourmet kosher foods. Rachael, along with husband Danie and daughters Davida, 11; Yehu- dith, 18, and Rivka, 25, enjoy an organic, healthy-eating lifestyle. "We do a lot of organic fruit on Shavuot and cheesecake, using organic cream cheese," Rachael said. "This is the one time of the year At gogues with sheaves of wheat, leafy branches and fresh flowers, so that Shavuot's festive feeling is imparted inside as well as out. We do this for two reasons: because Shavuot is a time of harvest, and, it is said, that And Eat It Too where we have an extra celebration and we increase our celebration by eating real organic dairy. It's a treat to eat the real dairy; the taste is defi- nitely better — its like, wow." A little history of Shavuot explains why dairy is such a part of this spring festival. Counting the Omer may not seem like much if you've never done it. An omer is a measure of grain and refers to the offering made on the second day of Passover. From then on, we count the days — 49 of them, pre- cisely seven weeks — between the second night of Passover and the start of Shavuot. We count them for nearly iwo months while we reflect and con- template our Jewishness. If this sounds like serious stuff — you're right. Because this is the time, historically, when Moses received the Torah at Mt. Sinai. For three days and three nights, the Israelites camped at the foot of the mountain, in anticipation of the laws from God. For seven weeks, mod- ern Jews await Shavuot, recalling the significance of this Divine gift. "For many, many days, we keep in mind that we're receiving the law. We're more conscientious dur- ing this time. Everything is more pro- nounced during the omer," Rachael Ben Hayoun said. Consequently, when the actual day of Shavuot arrives, there is great cel- ebration. Around the world, Jews participate in a tradition of decorat- ing our homes, classrooms and syna- on the day God gave Moses the Torah, Mt. Sinai miraculously bloomed in exultation. Why do we eat dairy? One school of thought explains that before the giving of the Torah, there were no laws of kashrut. With the Torah, laws regarding the preparation and eating of certain foods and in particular combinations, kashrut, were handed down. These laws contained specific information about eating and prepar- ing meat and other foods. Since the Israelites were not ready to eat meat under the restrictions of the new laws, no meat was served on this day. This custom is still practiced with the serving of dairy foods, usu- ally at lunch on Shavuot. So when Shavuot finally arrives, Boston transplant Ben Hayoun will make cheesecake. Her New York cheesecake is the real thing, filled with organic cream cheese and sour cream. West Bloomfield's Regina Goldstein spent her young years in Bologna, Italy. After World War II, she moved to Israel but brought along her love of Italian cooking. "I still love Italian foods. It's the best, isn't it?" Goldstein said. "I was making matza balls with Parmesan cheese and cinnamon even after I moved to Israel." Goldstein, a professed "little of this, a little of that" kind of cook, shares a recipe for an Italian cheesecake made with ricotta cheese and dried fruit: "It's from a I favorite book, in Italian, I've had for more than 30 years." Bev Price of Huntington Woods, a registered dietician, eats no dairy, so on Shavuot, she will use substitute ingredients to make her tofu cheese- : cake pie. "It's the flavorings that makes this taste like cheesecake. The citrus and graham-cracker crust add an authen- tic flavor," she said. Try some of the following cheese- : cake recipes to add even more excitement to your celebration. They include cheesecake recipes you'll go bananas over. 1 RICOTTA CHEESECAKE "Torta de Ricotta" From Regina Goldstein 2-1/4 pounds ricotta cheese 1/4 tsp. salt 1/4 cup flour 3/4 cup sugar 8 large eggs, separated Grated peel of 1 orange 1 cup yellow raisins 2 Tbsp. candied fruit Granulated sugar and ground cinnamon, garnish Preheat oven to 350 degrees. But and dust with flour a 10-inch spring-form pan. I Stir in ricotta with a wooden spoon. Stir in salt, flour, sugar, egg yolks and grated peel. Mix well to combine. Add raisins and candied fruits and stir until smooth. Beat egg whites until stiff and gently fold into cheese mixture. Pour in the filling and smooth the top; the mixture should reach only half-way up the pan. Bake for 45-60 minutes until set. Remove from oven and allow to rest for 15-20 minutes. Chill. Before serving, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and serve with whipped cream, if desired. Serves 12, generously.