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THE GEFILTE VARIATIONS
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Food writer Jayne Cohen is out with a new cookbook just in
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"Preparing gefilte fish from scratch
no longer seems so daunting, with
food processors and the wide availabil-
ity of a variety of gleaming fish fillets,"
writes Jayne Cohen in her new autobi-
ographical cookbook, The Gefilte
Variations (Scribner/Simon &
Schuster; $35). "Except for the broth.
That still requires real commitment."
Cohen, who lives with her husband
and daughter in a Greenwich Village
apartment, is a frequent writer on food
for such publications as Gourmet, Cook's,
The New York Times and Newsday.
In this book, Cohen challenges the
stereotypes of Jewish food, emphasizing
fresh, natural ingredients as she reinter-
prets traditional fare into dishes like
"Salmon Gefilte Fish with Ginger Beet
Horseradish," "Chicken Soup with
Asparagus, Shiitakes and Roasted Fennel
Mazza Balls" and "Hungarian Chocolate-
Walnut Torte." All recipes are kosher.
Cohen celebrates Jewish food not
simply for its history and religious sym-
bolism but for its unique epicurean char-
acter. ""I am not creating silly, culturally
perverse combinations here, like matza
balls made with butter and destined for a
meat soup, or gourmet hybrids, like
jalapeno-sun-dried-tomato-gefilte fish,"
she assures her readers. "Rather my
recipes are all integrated interpretations
of foods I think of as Jewish. ... It is the
autobiography of one palate."
Inspired by both Askenazi and
Sephardic classic cooking, the book is
divided into two sections: The -first
begins with new twists on year-round
favorites, such as stuffing brisket with
eggplant; the second section offers new
takes on holiday standards, and features
a variety of menus for religious and
life-cycle celebrations.
Cohen introduces each of the 200