Fidel, our guide tells us, only of Che
[Guevara, the Argentine-born revolu-
tionary]. "It is against the law to have
pictures or statues of anyone still living,"
the guide says.
At the Ludwig Foundation for
Cuban Artists is an exhibition called
"Sugar Water." It has sandals made from
old tires, drinking glasses from cut-up
pop bottles, etc. During the severest
shortages, hungry people would take
water and mix it with sugar so as to have
the illusion of something to eat.
"Look! A boat, a bus
— icons at
the Museum of the Revolution.
Ordinary objects suddenly made extra-
ordinary. The boat, Granma, is the one
on which Che and Fidel returned to
Cuba to start the revolution. The
Communist Party newspaper is not
Pravda here. It is called Granma.
We meet with diplomats at the U.S.
Interests Section, a convenient fiction. It
is suggested that with an end to the
embargo, capitalism will surge onto the
island; Fidel will be helpless. If, the chief
of section responds, we allow more
[goods] in, he may control that, too,
giving him even more power. But he
cannot even control everything now
Even with restrictions, the paladares have
plenty of food, shops have electronics
stacked up, waiting for buyers, etc. The
establishment of the separate dollar
economy and the stores to go with it
seem an admission that there are power-
ful forces at work.

1**, Mai

• ..4

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James Corwin (changed from
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