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The Best Of Everything
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A Time To Look Back
From Horenstein's to Hoa Kow, nearly
a century of food memories.
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Wed., Thurs. & Fri.
February 23, 24 & IS
THE GOLDEN BOYS
FRANKIE AVALON,
FABIAN &
BOBBY RYDELL
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• Wed. & Thurs., May 17 & 18
• ‘4,FRANKIE VALLI
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and the
• *FOUR SEASONS
Thurs., July 20
OA N RIVERS
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Wed. & Thurs., Oct. 2S & 26
DON RICKLES
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ITALIA
• 7096 East Fourteen Mile Rod.
(just west ofVan Dyke in Warren)
12/31
1999
88
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(810) 268-3200
the same family serving the same
ooking back:
food
in the same location on Jos.
Hy Horenstein was
Campau
in Hamtramck since early
owner and sole counter man
1900.
_ at the deli that bore his
Stanley Gredzinski and his wife
name on 10 Mile and Coolidge in
had
moved their shoe store from
the Dexter-Davison Shopping
Canfield and Dubois to Jos.
Center.
Campau and Frederick, in
He had started out as a
those
days one of Detroit's
busboy and counter man at
elegant
neighborhoods.
the Boesky's on 12th and
The
shoe
store didn't do
Hazelwood ... left to be a
too
well,
so
Stanley
opened
counter man for Sam Boesky
a
restaurant
and
saloon
...
on Griswold ... and then had
The
business
flourished
his own Hy Horenstein
until Prohibition.
Delicatessen operations ever
Honest Stanley would
since ... becoming somewhat
not
violate the law of his
of an institution ... Farmer
D ANNY
adopted
land so he leased
and Monroe, Second and
RA SKIN
the
place
to some oppor-
Seward, Six Mile and Santa
Local Columnist tunistic gent who ran the
Barbara, Dexter and Boston,
place as a "speak" during
Livernois and Seven Mile ...
those
trying
years.
and 10 Mile and Coolidge, which
The
"fish
place" was well-named
Hy had for 35 years.
because
fish
was the specialty ... Pan-
He used to close for vacations two
fried
perch
that
fairly melted in your
times a year ... and if Hy didn't
mouth
(if
I
can
borrow
a well-worn
work, nobody worked ... To him,
phrase)
gained
the
Ivanhoe
a city-
making a simple corned beef sand-
wide
reputation.
wich, among other things, was a self-
If your manual dexterity was of a
controlled, hand-cut art of yester-
high
quotient then you would have
years that he wanted to maintain ...
no
trouble
skimming the bones out
Also the French fries for which Hy
of
the
tender
white meat If it
was noted ... from hand-cut and
hand-peeled potatoes.
Vienna Beef put him in its
Hall of Fame ... as a 50-year
customer ... but Hy's deal-
ings with Vienna as a deli-
catessen owner spanned 65
years before he retired.
Today, he is 88 and lives
in Southfield, where Hy is as
proud of his award-winning
yard as he was of his corned
beef ... And even the grass is
hand-cut.
TO SOME PEOPLE, it
was known simply as the
"fish place," while others
more imaginatively called it
the "fish house" ... On one
of the aged walls of a room,
surrounded by pictures of
celebrities who had eaten
there, was a large banner
that read, "Polish Yacht
Club."
The real name was
Hy Horenstein: The deli man.
Ivanhoe Cafe and it was in
L
AUBURN HILLS
Lelli's of Auburn Hills, 885 Opdyke Road,
Auburn Hills, (248) 373-1440.The second of
Lein traditionally fine Italian ristorantes is locat-
ed across from the Pontiac Silver-dome. Besides
elegant surroundings, it features the same excel-
lent food served by the Lelli family since 1939.
Reservations are accepted for any evening
except Saturday.
BERKLEY
Slia, 4033 W. 12 Mile Road, Berkley, (248) 548-
3650.There is nothing like a consistently
dependable neighborhood family restaurant.
The Italian and American menu is one that
evokes much confidence in casual dining.The
chicken, ribs, round and square pizzas, fish,
salad, pasta, etc. are served seven days a week
for lunch and dinner. Everything is also available
for carry-out.
BLOOMFIELD HILLS
Steve's Deli, 6646 Telegraph Road, Bloomfield
Hills, (248) 932-0800. Award-winning chicken
soup is featured.Also serving corned beef, fresh
roasted turkey, sandwiches, salads and traditional
dishes. Party trays and catering too at this New
York-style deli. Carnegie Deli cheesecake and
Steve's Brownies are among the desserts.
DETROIT
Lelli's of Detroit, 7618 Woodward, Detroit,
(313) 871-1590. Lelli's has been an Italian
favorite since 1939, with traditional dishes
served daily.The varied menus of Italian special-
ties provide regular and light presentations by
the Lelli family.
FARMINGTON HILLS
Desert Sands, 29222 Orchard Lake Road,
Farmington Hills, (248) 855-1122. Middle-
Eastern dining is featured by Hassan R.177i, for-
mer maitre d' at the Original Sheik in down-
town Detroit. Daily specials at lunch and din-
ner. Full menu carryout with catering available.
Complete liquor service.
Intelligent Chicken, 32431 Northwestern
Hwy., Farmington Hills, (248) 855-4455.The wide
variety of specialty items are together with a
complete menu of charbroiled or rotisserie
chicken for both dining in the 40-seater area and
carry-out, 7 days a week Soups, chili, salads and
side dishes are homemade.Also homemade are
the popular cookies and brownies.
Marvin's Marvelous Mechanical Museum,
31005 Orchard Lake Road, Farmington Hills,
(248) 626-5020. One magazine said that there
was no place like it in the country.The Guinness
Book of Records has featured its accomplish-
merits. Lunch and snacks are available with table
seating amidst video games, antiques, nostalgic
posters, flying miniature airplanes, entertainment
attractions, pinball machines, etc. ft is open
seven days a week.
Vineyards Cafe & Catering, 32418
Northwestern Hwy., Farmington Hills, (248)
855-9463.This is a many-faceted type of opera-
tion. Nibbles and Nuts at the Vineyards, and
traditional Jewish dishes prepared by Shirlee
Bloom, using only kosher products in her sepa-
DINING GUIDE
on page 92