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Frank encour- "Today, it's a miracle," he said, ages visiting Babi speaking at the 48th annual Jewish Yar in Kiev, and Book Fair at the Jewish Community synagogues, day Center of Metropolitan Detroit in schools, Hillel November. houses and Frank describes attending a con- "Cheseds" (Jewish cert by popular Israeli singer Dudu Family Service- Fisher, held in a concert hall five min- type organiza- utes from the Kremlin: "There was a tions), which can Russian flag on one side of the stage, now be found in and an Israeli flag on the other!" Ben Frank all the major He tells of 15,000 Jews attending Rosh HaShana sere ices in a sports arena in Moscow and incredu- lously recalls a Chanuka menora lighting ceremony, right near Red Square. Conducted by the Chabad Jewish Community Center in Moscow, the candle- lighting was followed by a performance of the Russian Army Band playing Hebrew songs. Except for some of the old synagogues that survived the war, such as the magnificent Choral Synagogue in St. Petersburg, built under the czar, "every- thing you see Jewish- wise is new," says Frank. There is now a statue of Sholom Aleichem in Kiev, and tourists can visit the Special to the Jewish News B The Leningrad Synagogue To order your subse [ion or a ilft su for family or friend*I 124, cities. "It is important for Jews to come and keep a Jewish presence," he says. For those interested in genealogy, Frank suggests using the big cities as a base, and searching for shtelach from there. "It's not easy to trace roots," he says. You have to be a detective. Follow leads and talk to lots of people. Frank advises tourists to hire a guide, or at least go in groups of four or five couples. He recommends Intourist and a travel group called Zekher Avotainu which, he says, can arrange kosher meals and accommo- dations. Although expensive, he says there are good hotels and good food avail- able. Otherwise, accommodations are at least adequate. ,, Although tourists no longer need to worry about being followed by the KGB, Frank stresses that all travel arrangements must be in place before arrival. "You need to do everything (visas, hotel reservations, etc.) in advance," he says. Make sure all your papers are in order." Other tips: Bring your own medi- cine, adequate clothing and snacks, and don't plan tight travel connections. The flight from New York is 10 hours, by Delta or Aeroflot direct to Moscow, or by Finn Air to Helsinki, and from there, a one- hour trip to St. Petersburg (for- merly Leningrad). Frank recom- mends traveling in June or July, when the weather is mild and tourists can enjoy the "white nights" in St. Petersburg, when daylight lasts until midnight. The author of two volumes of A Travel Guide to Jewish Europe, Frank is widely regarded as an authority on Jewish travel. A Travel Guide to Jewish Russia es. Ukraine took Frank several trips and nearly five years to complete. It is filled with sightseeing information, in- depth historical background of - sites covered, and copious biblio- graphical suggestions for further research. The book is thus equally useful to "armchair travelers." Frank real- izes that most people will not choose to vacation in the former Soviet Union. However, although a trip to Russia cannot offer a luxury vacation experience, for those inter- ested in exploring their heritage, or for those with an interest in history; Frank highly recommends going. "Russia is not on the other side of the moon!" he laughs. 11