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KNIGHT & DEUTSCH
MAS I I R
TM
11/26
1999
GL2
oig4
248-352
26571 W. 12 MILE • SOUTHFIELD
48034
from page 10
Start with the basics
To make latkes, you
must start with a vegetable
or fruit. It should be shred-
ded or grated and corn-
bined with egg. That's first.
The latkes should be
shaped into rounds and
fried. Everything else is
interpretation. Many think
a latke must have chopped
onions and salt. Others
forego the onions but add
flour or matzo meal to the
batter. It's really a matter
of custom and tradition.
But to limit latkes to
potatoes, is shortsighted.
Zucchini lathes are a simple variation of the
Any vegetable can become
traditional potato pancake.
the foundation of a latke.
Shredded apples and zuc-
chini are excellent as bases
as well. Oil that's too hot will quickly
for latkes. Other root vegetables such
cook the outside of a latke while the
as parsnips, sweet potatoes and car-
inside remains raw. When done,
rots are equally appetizing when sub-
latkes are best served hot, after a
stituted for potatoes in equal
quick draining on paper towels.
amounts.
If they must be heated, heat them
on a low oven on a paper towel lined
Learn the technique
shallow baking pan. If the pan is too
First and foremost, wet vegetables
deep, the latkes will become soggy.
make for soggy latkes. And since all
vegetables are mostly water, it's
Make them yours
important to dry ingredients as much
When you've perfected the tech-
as possible before cooking them.
niques and cooking method, it's time
Allow shredded potatoes to sit long
to experiment. It's here where your
enough in a bowl, and you'll see that
latkes become a work of culinary art.
starchy water has collected at the bot-
Simply adding an ingredient or
tom of the vessel. Often, potatoes left
two to latke batter can enhance the
exposed to air will discolor to a
latke eating experience. Sliced leeks
brownish, reddish hue. That's the
or scallions are just other types of
starch coming to surface. A quick
onions. Chopped parsley or bell
rinse will remove the starch and bring
peppers add color and flavor. Corn
the potato back to its natural color.
flour or meal can replace flour in
The next step is crucial. Whether
most recipes. Stiffly whipped egg
root vegetables are used immediately
whites (two substitute for a whole
or not, it's imperative that they be
egg) can make a latke as light as air.
dried as much as possible. Some press
Stirring in a cup or two of cooked,
down on the grated vegetables in a -
drained black beans makes the
colander to expel as much liquid as
latkes even more contemporary. The
possible. Others wrap the shreds in
list goes on.
paper towel and squeeze the excess
Finally, just topping a latke with
water. Any way you prefer to dry
ingredients other than the traditional
your vegetables is fine.
sour cream and applesauce can
change the nature of a latke. Simple
Fry day
stir ins or add-ons can make your
When it comes to frying latkes,
perfect latke even more special.
the oil must be hot. If it's not, latkes
A simple latke — potatoes, eggs
will merely boil in oil rather than
and oil — is a gourmet's delight.
become crisp, not greasy. Caution is
Individuality can transform a latke
called for if the oil becomes too hot
into even more.