The elegant-looking but simple decor promotes a cozy atmosphere of good taste. His mother, Phyllis Oliverio, is the head hostess greeting customers with her wide smile on Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday evenings ... One of the waitpersons, Este Johnson, was a server for Paul Kohn at the Shaarey Zedek Men's Club breakfasts. Oliverio's is open evenings only from 4:30 ... Monday through Thursday until 10; Friday and Saturday 'till 11; Sunday to 9. Biggest fish sellers are Artie's Salmon Livernaise ... farm-raised and sauteed with black calamata olives, onions, basil, fresh capers and tomato sauce ... and White Fish Fresca poached with chopped fresh tomato, basil, garlic and olive oil. The very different food includes Clams Arreganate, little necks stuffed and baked with Italian breadcrumbs, garlic and Romano cheese ... and his original large California artichoke stuffed with Italian seasoned bread- crumbs, garlic, Romano cheese, spices and then slow roasted. Artie calls it an Italian chop house now because of the wide variety of steaks and chops ... The Veal Chop Calabrese, a largely-asked-for favorite, is a 14 oz. chop broiled and sautéed with garlic, lemon, sweet cherry pep- pers and vinegar ... The five varieties of New York strip steaks are also favored dishes ... as are the four styles of filet preparations. Steak Braciola is prepared only on request, with same-day notice enough time. I don't know of any other Italian restaurant that makes its own fresh mozzarella cheese ... Oliverio's also prepares its own sauces, raviolis, stuffed shells and cannelloni. No one else has the Pumpkin Tortellini for two served by Oliverio's ... It is another original preparation by Artie ... served in a wine cream sauce. On the dessert side, he makes the strawberry and Italian cheesecakes ... and Artie's sister, Terry Pappas, the delicious Zuccata, with its layers of chocolate and vanilla mousse and four different liqueurs. Artie also makes the cream filling for his cannoli shells. That this is a very different New York-style Italian restaurant is appar- ent with its dining preparations and graceful atmosphere. The food surely brings people back for more. THE MOUSTACHE you'll see being sported by a lot of local person- Give a Gift that's Sure to get Returned Why not share the award winning food, fine wines and warm hospitality of a Chuck Muer restaurant with a friend, relative or work associate? Our gift certificates come in various denominations and special discounts are available for large purchases. el-2aRleq's eRab RIVeR 5498 Crooks Rd. in Troy (248) 879-2060 401 Depot St. in Ann Arbor (734) 769-0592 CHUCK MUER'S Big 700 Town Center in Dearborn crab 1337 N. River Rd. in St. Clair (810) 329-2261 CHUCK MUER'S SEAFOOD 4r.ar4 MEIUWETHERS a===as (313) 336-6350 TA V E N 25485 Telegraph in Southfield 1111 W. 14 Mile Rd. in Madison Heights 5656 W. Maple in West Bloomfield (248) 358-1310 (248) 585-9533 (248) 851-2251 11111•=MINININIMMIED 11/12 1999 -99