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Above: "Wall-hanging
Composed of Four Panels,"
Central Asia; mid-19th
century; silk, warp faced plain weave. Collection of Guido Goldman.

Right: "Wall-hanging Composed of Three Full Panels and One Split
Panel," Central Asia, Uzbekistan, Bukhara; first half of 19th century;
silk, warp faced plain weave. Collection of Guido Goldman

included in a woman's dowry, and
when she died, a robe often was
draped over her coffin.
Ikats were used in festivals and
outdoor pavilions, and were incorpo-
rated into ceremonial rituals. They
were worn during Shiva, and were an
integral aspect of the marriage cere-
mony, sometimes even used as the
chuppa. They covered sukkot and
teffilin, and were given as gifts to
synagogues by their congregations,
covering a building's walls and floors,
and used as curtains for the Ark and
wrappings for Torah cases.
"They were used as currency," says
Nahson. "Members of the community
were sophisticated enough in evaluat-
ing the value of an ikat, and under-
standing the meaning of the gift."
They were the most brilliant cre-
ations of the artisans of 19th-century
Central Asia," say Kate Fitz Gibbon and
Andrew Hale in their accompanying
catalogue of the exhibition. The pro-
duction of ikats came to a halt when,
with the rise of industrial, textiles, hand
dyeing became too expensive.
At the same time — the end of the
19th century — discrimination and
enforced assimilation caused Jews to
emigrate to Palestine, where Bukharin
Jews established their own quarter. In
a second wave of emigration, in the
1920s and '30s, these Jews escaped to
Afghanistan and Iran.
In 1979, following the Soviet
invasion of Afghanistan, the remain-

ing population of Afghan Jews emi-
grated to Israel and the United
States. Today, Queens, New York,
has a community of about 45,000
Bukharin Jews, second only to Israel.
"When I acquired my first ikat, I
had no idea of their history and tech-
nical complexity," says Goldman. "I
was just following my eye. As it turns
out, I have a preponderance of early,
multicolored pieces, which I think are
the most extraordinary.
Included in the Art Institute of
Chicago's exhibition are silk and cot-
ton wall hangings and robes, and vel-
vet panels and robes.
Says curator Thurman, "Some of
these patterns are so modern, they
could have been done yesterday. The
weavers' interest was in producing
striking, eye-catching design and
brilliant shades of color."

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"Ikat: Splendid Silks of Central
Asia from the Guido Goldman
Collection" runs through Jan. 9,
2000, at the Art Institute of
Chicago. Hours are 10:30 a.m.-
4:30 p.m. Monday, Wednesday-
Friday; 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m.
Tuesdays; 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
Saturdays; noon-5 p.m. Sundays.
Closed Thanksgiving and
Christmas days.
Adults/$8; children, students,
seniors/$5; members free. (312)
443-3600. www.artic.edu .

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Detroit Jewish News

10/1
199

91