tohhel the entire %alah Oommainik a 7tcylpq and Zeafthq q&ta (Ije_ar Israel boasts 28 "boutique ,/ w i neries, launched by enthusiasts who are sidling into the mainstream. A smooth, fruity red from one of them, Meron, won a recent blind tasting at the Gerstels in Jerusalem. The range is increasing from year to year. As well as the familiar Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, growers are experiment- ing with such exotic varieties like Cabernet Franc (from the Loire Valley in France) and the Italian Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. Dalton Wineries, one of the more ambitious newcomers, was established by Mat Haruni, a veteran of London's Hatton Garden gem trade, who moved to Israel in 1995. "My father," says his 32-year-old son, Alex, at their Upper Galilee plant, "had never been involved in wine, but he was looking for somewhere in the north to invest in land and build an industry." The Harunis went into partnership with Armand Maman, a Moroccan- born farmer in Kerem Ben-Zimra, a run-down moshav three miles from the Lebanese border. They called in John Worontschak, a globetrotting Australian consultant known as the "flying winemaker." And they hired Arkadi Papikian, a Ukrainian immi- grant with a Ph.D. in viticulture, as full-time winemaker. This year, Dalton has 70 acres of vines and expects to produce 250,000 bottles. We hope to take it up to 500,000 over the next five years," says Alex Haruni, the production manag- er. "We expect to be making a profit in two years. We're already exporting to the United States and Australia." Last month, Daniel Rogov, the Haaretz wine critic, welcomed Dalton's "excellent value" Chardonnay Reserve 1997 for its "lush pear, melon and vanilla flavors and aromas and just the right touch of oak." What winemaker could ask for more' Golan, one of the two or three leading exporters, now sells 80 per- cent of its wine in Israel. A decade ago, the ratio was 50:50. In his temperature-controlled cellar in Ethiopia Street, Martin Gerstel has only one complaint. "Because of the increasing interest," he says, and the relative scarcity of the best Israeli reds, anything other than the current vintage is vastly overpriced." If Ehud Barak succeeds in making peace with Syria and the Golan winery has to relocate off the heights, the problem will get worse before it gets better. fl Dr. Elliot H. Burns Judith Shewach-Stevenson Leonard Baruch (Emeritus) Beth Abraham-Hillel Moses, 5075 W. Maple West Bloomfield, 248-851-6880 Shaarey Zedek, 27375 Bell Rd. Southfield. 248-357-5544 JoAnne Levy Shaarey Zedek/B'nai Israel, 4200 Walnut Lake Rd. West Bloomfield, 248-357-5544 Congregation Shir Tikvah, 3900 Northfield Pkwy. Troy, 248-649-4418 Helen Forman Alan Yost Birmingham Temple, 28611 W. 12 Mile Rd. Farmington Hills, 248-477-1410 Ada!, Shalom, 29901 Middlebelt Rd. Farmington Hills, 248-851-5100 Thomas Jablonski, ET.A.. ES.A. David Tisdale Temple Beth El, 7400 Telegraph Bloomfield Hills, 248-851-1100 Temple Israel, 5725 Walnut Lake Rd. West Bloomfield, 248-661-5700 Don Cohen Elliot Sorkin Temple Emanu-El, 14450 West 10 Mile Rd. Oak Park, 248-967-4020 Beth Israel Congregation, 2000 Washtenaw Ann Arbor, 734-665-9898 USHANAll *TOVAH ghe cftwitwoque/7emple the addrels of the *obit Weeiple• r MINER *vtli tg 4411 4idow , . ''' evefiroos c Wishing our Campers, Families and Friends a Happy, Healthy and Fun New Year! SEE YOU NEXT SUMMER, OUR 32ND YEAR!! Arnie and Lorraine Fisher , LUMBER CO: , #' 4tv would like to wish all of our friends and customers a very happy and healthy New Year. The Epstein Families Isadore Robert & Janet Jeff & Dana Ken & Nancy Stuart & Suzi Lam-en & Jason 9/10 1999 DetrJit Jewish News R5