Il Food liner) ANNABEL COHEN Special to the Jewish News S eptember, for the most part, is yet a summer month. It's still warm, and until near the end, the leaves on the trees are green. So just because the calendar page has turned, the school year begun and the High Holidays are soon upon us, doesn't mean that we immediately have to switch from crisp, cool salads to the hot, heavy, heartier foods. One of the summer's greatest pleasures combines the comfort of pasta with summer's bounty. Pasta sal- ads are more popular than ever. The reason could be that most pasta salads are considered meals in them- selves, usually served with crunchy , breads. All pastas"rely on sauces and condiments to give them flavor. It so happens that cool dress- ings and sauces, like those normally served over greens, work perfectly well over cooled pasta. A good pasta salad starts with the choice of pasta. Small shapes, such as penne, rotini, orrechiere and fusilli, work best. When cooked correctly — al dente (cooked but not mushy or waterlogged) and quickly rinsed under cold water to stop the cook- ing process — they keep their shapes when tossed with other ingredients. Delicate shapes, such as farfalle (bow ties) or "wheels" can break if roughhoused or left too long in wet dressings or tossed with many ingredients. There's still time to enjoy some of summer's delicious pasta salads. Long pastas, such as spaghetti or linguine can also work well. They're just more difficult to eat when armed with only a fork. As a rule, dressing, cold sauces -- or hot sauces for that matter -- cling best to dried, cooked pasta. So after cooking and rinsing the pasta for a salad, it's important to not only drain the pasta well, but to allow the pasta to dry just a bit. A quick way to remove water from cooked pasta is to line a cook- ie sheet with a clean dishtowel and spread the cooked pasta over the towel to allow the excess water to evaporate. When it comes to ingredients, it's nearly impossible to ruin a pasta salad. Most pasta salads that aren't tasty are either mushy, don't have enough ingredients or use bad dressings, such as a purchased Italian dressing. Look to the garden for the most satisfying salad ingredients. What's in season is best — use plenty of vegeta- bles in many different combinations. When you've prepared a pasta . salad and it doesn't look like there are enough vegetables to make the salad colorful and eye-appealing, add more. Use your discretion. A simple vinaigrette is better than 8/27 1999 Detroit Jewish News 127