STYLE • SELECTION • SERVICE
Timberland
atraa§
RUTH ROVNER
Greg
Special to the Jewish News
T
he bagels are tempt-
ingly displayed and in
many varieties: onion,
poppyseed, pumper-
nickel, blueberry. The deli items
include three types of lox,
smoked fish of all sorts, white-
\___, fish salad, pastrami, gourmet
' cream cheese spreads, and knish-
Frances Franco of the Big Apple Bagel 6- Deli.
es, both round and square.
Indeed, the Big Apple Bagel
& Deli has all the ingredients of
1996, is named Itches in honor of
a classic New York kosher deli —
owner 'Richard Kleiman's father, Isaac,
except that it's located on a tropical
whose nickname is Itches.
island in the Caribbean.
Kleiman, a native of Puerto Rico,
Opened barely a year ago, the
trained at the California Culinary
cheerful and casual deli is in sunny
Academy in San Francisco and then
> San Juan, where Caribbean charm
worked in a French restaurant on the
blends well with New York-style deli
island before he and George Cruz
fare. Located at 1407 Ashford Avenue,
decided to open their first restaurant.
in the heart of the tourist area, it's a
Located in Guaynabo, a 15-
welcome discovery for tourists who
minute drive from the center of San
hunger for bagels and lox even in the
Juan, Itches is a restaurant where
Caribbean.
the owner's Jewish identity is quite
The Big Apple deli was one of our
evident. A mezuza is on the door.
culinary adventures during a recent
Four paintings on display are by
\-, trip to Puerto Rico. Even though it's
Israeli artist Shraga Weil. Another is
' fun to sample the native cuisine dur-
by Yossi Bergner, also an Israeli.
ing travels, it's often even more of a
(Kleiman's wife Michal
challenge to seek out kosher cuisine.
Rubinowitsch is Israeli, and his in-
That is especially true in San Juan,
laws are art collectors).
with its emphasis on Puerto Rican
Kleiman wanted his menu to
and Spanish-style foods. But with
appeal to a wide range of patrons.
some effort, we found two recently
Besides the grilled kosher chicken (it's
opened restaurants, both with kosher
Empire chicken), the ambitious menu
cuisine available.
features such items as breast of duck,
For the Big Apple Bagel & Deli,
/2
medallions of salmon with shallots;
the first and only kosher deli on the
and sauteed fresh cod with root veg-
island, owner Eric Charak spent a
etables, a Puerto Rican dish.
year planning; he's been busy ever
Besides items on the menu,
since the opening in 1996.
Kleiman can prepare dishes that his
With an apple as its logo, and
patrons request. The restaurant is also
posters of Manhattan on the walls,
a popular choice for kosher luncheons
) the place has a cheerful and casual
or dinners sponsored by Jewish
ambience. From the start, it has
groups, like Hadassah, which often
`Th attracted a diverse group of patrons,
meets here.
from native Puerto Ricans to tourists
Whatever the occasion, the person-
who wander in as they're strolling
able owner is always eager to accom-
along Ashford Avenue.
modate his guests.
Another novelty was finding an
From lox and bagels to grilled
upscale restaurant with international
chicken, our culinary four gave us a
cuisine, one where guests seeking
delicious experience, and showed us
kosher food are especially welcome.
that kosher cuisine and Caribbean
The restaurant, also opened in
ambiance blend very well indeed. 1-1
fus
A SKECHERS
Cuisine And Climate
Blend In San Juan
an di6. elefonten
to n
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8/20
1999
Detroit Jewish News
115