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124
the Dead Sea for himself, was one of the (--/
first recorded wine snobs. The contem-
porary historian Josephus Flavius men-
tions that he kept a wine butler.
A wine jar in the exhibit is
inscribed in Latin, "For Herod, King
of Judaea." It also has the type and
vintage, indicating that it was import-
ed from Italy in 19 B.C.E.. "This
country was known for its high-class
wines," sniffs Dayagi-Mendels, as if
she could forgive his other iniquities,
"but Herod had to have Italian."
The curator also challenges the rep-
utation of the monastic, straight-laced
community of Qumran, which wrote
the Dead Sea Scrolls. Bone-colored
cups found at their site are suspicious-
ly like those used for wine-drinking at
that time. The impression is enhanced
by a recently-deciphered fragment of
the Temple Scroll that refers to the
festival of Tirosh, usually translated as
grape juice, but which she thinks was
more like the young Beaujolais
Nouveau of antiquity (grape juice fer-
ments quickly in hot climates).
The Jerusalem exhibition, which
runs till the end of 1999, traces wine
and beer production in the Near East
and Middle East from cultivation to
inebriation. The ancients took their
wine red and white, sweet, sour,
spiced and smoked. As well as fresh
grapes, they used raisins and made
grappa from left-over skins.
There are tomb paintings of vine
pruning from Thebes in the second
millennium B.C.E., a portable pottery
wine press from eighth century B.C.E.
Ashdod, a pottery jug and strainer
with the remains of raisins from 11th
century B.C.E. Shiloh.
There are banquets galore, from
Armenia, Iran, Syria and, of course,
Greece, on belts and goblets, ivories,
frescos and urns. The Prophets
Jeremiah and Amos spoke of the
Marzeah, a kind of wake which began
with food and drink and ended in
orgies. Men drank together, women
drank together, sometimes they all
drank together.
And a cautionary note. An exquis-
ite black and yellow Doric plate paint-
ing from 480 B.C.E. depicts a Greek
gentleman who has had too much. He
is reclining, his boots under his
couch, a young man holding his lau-
reled head, while the gentleman pokes
two fingers down his throat and spews
it all up.
Alas, the Israel Museum, has decided
not to reproduce the booze of antiquity,
but is offering tastings of modern wines
from the Golan and Galilee. 1 1
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