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DETROIT JEWISH NEWS

"The Best Of Everything

Dairy Gotuvmet

La Difference proves kosher restaurants

Fighting To Become
Americans

Both are dependent on someone to
underwrite the things one wants."
She adds: "When you understand we
are saying more or less the same things
Some would say that all stereotypes have
about women in 1999, it gives us pause
some basis in truth, but Riv-Ellen Prell
about why these stereotypes circulate."
argues in her provocative new book,
Prell opens the book by observing a
Fighting To Become Americans: Jews,
1994 workshop, "Jewish Men and
Gender and the Anxiety of Assimilation
Women: Can We Talk?" When asked
(Beacon; $28.50)) that what's interesting
to describe each other, the young men
about stereotypes is not the content, but
and women each use charged, negative
what they say about the people and cul-
stereotypes. Men are "egocentric,
\ cure that created them.
materialistic, spoiled ..." and the
Prell, an anthropologist, unpacks
women are "calculating, high mainte-
the stereotypes — which are never
nance, spoiled ... ."
neutral — that have been assigned to
At the beginning of the century, she
American Jews over the course of this
reflects, the same portraits might have
century, exploring issues of power, gen-
been shared. She quotes a columnist for
der, social mobility and the Jewish
the Jewish Daily . News in 1901 as com-
community's relationship to America.
plaining that Jewish women judged a man
Prell shows that long before Jewish
:`as alright, if only he had the money."
women were referred to as Jewish
And, in 1925, a woman writing to
/American Princesses, newspapers men-
the
Yiddish newspaper The Day accus-
tioned "ghetto girls" — young immi-
es Jewish men of treating Jewish
grant women who were thought to wear
women as though they
garish and flamboyant
were "conferring a favor"
styles, to be unrefined in
on her by their compan-
their manners, and overly
ionship.
interested in appearance
Explaining how the
and in acquiring things.
mainstream culture's
The author first found
ambivalence toward Jews
reference to the "girls"
gets played out in rela-
in 1902 in the Jewish
tionships between men
Daily News, an English-
and women, she writes:
language newspaper, and
"The inescapable fact is
then found many more
that Jews, like other
references in other news-
minorities,
carry a double
papers, plays, records of
burden in that they repre-
philanthropy and social
Riv-Elle Prell: "I tried to
sent to a dominant culture
work. An image created
make sense of these stereo-
types that wouldn't die or go what it reviles, while they
by men, "she was the
away over a whole century" also attach those castiga-
nightmare of excessive
dons to themselves along
Americanization and
the divide of gender.
desire projected by professionals and
"As Americans looked upon Jews as
Middle-class Jews onto young working-
marginal, obsessed with money, unciv-
class Jewish women."
il and unworthy of citizenship, Jewish
The "ghetto girl" also reflected the
men and middle-class Jews projected
anxiety that many immigrants felt
those very accusations on Jewish
about being outsiders in America
women and the working class."
because they were Jews.
Among her sources are newspapers,
\ "I tried to make sense of these
including
the letters sections of the
Stereotypes that wouldn't die or go
immigrant press, magazines, novels,
away over a whole century,'' Prell says
memoirs, film and the routines of
n a telephone interview from her
comics like Gilda Radner.
-lame in Minneapolis, where she
In a final chapter, she examines
reaches in the American studies depart-
how women have talked back in the
nent at the University of Minnesota.
'70s, '80s and '90s, a time when femi-
She discusses a line of striking con-
nism,
sexual freedom and multicultur-
inuity, that stretches from the "ghetto
alism hold out new possibilities for
to the JAP. Those who created
crafting an identity.
use the JAP image are themselves
"Part of the reason I wrote this," she
nxious about such matters as materi-
explains, "is to say to other Jews: This
aism, equality and feeling at home in
is. about the nation, it isn't about us. If
Vmerica. While the "ghetto girl" is
I can show you where we learned this,
about a group of people yearning, the
maybe I can help us think differently
AP image is about people who have
about one another." TI
rrived in the middle class and have
ecome oppressed by its demands.
— Sandee Brawarsky

L

can s ucceed.

available in this country.
Executive Chef John Schmidt
\ smashed potatoes and vegetables.
potlessly
clean
is responsible for the excellent
the name implies, La
The large, s
kitchen was done over for kosher dishes served at La
Difference is a very differ-
Difference ... His grilled portabel-
La Difference ... There's a
ent type of
lo mushrooms with braised fennel,
kosher restau-
co mpletely new line of
tomatoes andsabbage is a choice
stoves, fryers, stainless
rant.
dish ..• As is s toasted eggplant
steel ovens, coffee
In fact, you may not
filled with mozzarella, cream
grinders and so much
see another kosher
cheese and Camembert, with
more.
restaurant like this out-
beans and
General
Manager
small red beans, navy
side of maybe New York
black beans ... plus a hint of wine.
John Wood is probably
or California.
At the door on evenings is
one of the most knowl-
A to p-of-the-line
DANNY
edgeable persons in the
hostess Esther Tuchklaper, gra-
wine, liquor and cham-
RASKIN
restaurant business ... As
cious and pleasant.
pagne selection came
Local Columnist
Milk products served at La
vice president of Machus
when the liquor license
Cholev Yisroel.
Restaurants, he was
Difference
are
was received.
highly respected for his gentle-
Although it is an
upscale kosher restaurant, the
biggest sellers remain the fish
entrees ... Like broiled whitefish,
sea bass, Ahi tuna, North Atlantic
salmon and perch.
La Difference may have these
in common with kosher restau-
rants of yesteryears ..• but only in
the fish themselves ... not the
preparations.
One of the salmon dishes, for
is served on a bed of
example ,
spinach, red onion, Chanterelle
mushrooms and roasted red pep-
moked salmon is
pers ... The s
Owners David and Paul Kohn and general manager John Wood
moked in fruitwood, topped
La Difference.
s
have a hit on their hands with
with caviar and sour cream on a
crisp potato latke ... and garnished
Once they are seated, along
with fried capers.
comes French bread, a caramelized
manly ways and wide dining wis-
Ahi tuna is charred with red
onion
spread and a sampling of
chili fettuccine, peanuts, scallions,
dom. David Kohn, Paul's son,
bean sprouts, fried ginger threads
the
day.
estaurant ,
Just about everything is made
who helps operate the r
and Wasabi citrus cream.
from scratch at La Difference ...
is so intent on learning to give
There are other fresh fish
top-drawer cuisine that he traveled including its own desserts."
selections you may never have
to Israel and Amsterdam looking
found before ... Like Macadamia
ources of cheeses not
Crusted Chilean Sea Bass, a fresh
for new s
and delicious filet served on

:

Ea

Difference

Dinner: Sun.-Thurs. 5-9
Lunch: Mon.-Fri. 11-2
Sunday Brunch 11:00-2:00
7295 Orchard Lake Road, West Bloomfield

Reservations Recommended

248-932-8934

THE GALLERY RESTAURANT

Enjoy gracious dining amid a beautiful
atmosphere of casual elegance

BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER

41
I
41

OPEN 7 DAYS: MON.- SAT. 7 a.m.- 9:30 p.m. SUN. 8 a.m.- 9 p.m.
West Bloomfield Plaza • 6638 Telegraph Road and Maple • 248-851-0313

Make IT Di MoaesTa - Again.

We invite you back TO Ristogante Di Modesta.
Wbeize we weLcome you TO a Long standing tRadition
oF Fine dining, Fine wines ana Fiziends.
Make IT Di Modesta's c u

Cate-ming
PRivate PaRties 41; Special_ Events

(RISTORflliTt
(tiootsTft

29-110 NORTHWESTERN HIGHWAY I SOUTHFIELD 1 2 4 8 . 3 5 8. 0 3 4 4

Detroit Jewish News

7/9
1999

9B