• Not Your Average Tour Now returned to Detroit, 1999 Miracle Mission participants recall a rewardingly packed trip. HARRY KI RS BAUM Staff Writer ust back from a whirlwind tour of Israel, many participants found Michigan Miracle Mission III a rewarding, and occasionally grueling, 10-day trip. "It was the fullest trip to Israel I have ever experienced," said Rabbi Daniel Syme of Temple Beth El, who had made 50 previous trips to Israel. "What amazed me was the number of sites I had never seen before. The mis- sion succeeded in making a program as new and fresh for those who had been to Israel many times as well as those who were visiting the first time." More than 600 people in 15 buses left each morning for tours through Latrun, Tel Aviv, Old Jaffa, Tiberias, Safad, Yad Vashem and Jerusalem. Two participants died of heart attacks on the trip: Naomi Kline, who died during the mission (her obituary ran last week), and Gerald Levin, who died during the extension tour of Jordan. (An obituary for A'Ir. Levin appears on page 150 and a column of appreciation is on page 39.) The trip was full and fast-paced, but participants had the opportunity to take some mornings off and taxi to their bus later in the day if they preferred to relax. "The pace depended on the individ- ual," Syme said. "Those that felt that they were not up to a particular activity stayed at the hotel and took a rest." Michael Shpiece of Adat Shalom Synagogue said that all participants were well aware of the active schedule. Miracle Mission Chairman Ben Rosenthal "had said that this was not a lie-by-the-pool vacation, and he was absolutely right," Shpiece said. "From the moment we got there, we were on the go. " While Susan Golden of Temple Israel said the pace was at times "gru- eling," she added that the trip "was better than we ever imagined. They had us aoinab and seeing so much that if you went on your own or went with a family, you would never see and do the things that we saw and did." Ellen Moss of Temple Beth El said the mission was a dream, but strenu- !j ous. At age 80 plus, "I think that I was a little old to go," she said. "There were a couple of nights I just didn't go to some events because I wanted to go the next day," she said, "so I just stayed in my hotel and rest- ed for the next day. "When you're in your 40s, 50s and 60s, you can do all those things, but I think I did pretty well." Rosenthal called the pace normal for a UJA mission, and added, "Israel is like a tel, a 27-layer tel, and I gave them one- and-a-half. It isn't like going to Rome or Paris, with a list of seven sights and you check them of and you've seen the city. "It's a country; it's a people; it's our culture; it's our history; it's our reli- gion," he said. "In order to do that, it's a more vigorous pace — there's no question about it. But our people [on the mission] were very good about it. They were thrilled with it at the end. They understood why we did it, and they didn't want to miss anything." Syme suggested extending the trip to two weeks. "Israel can be over- whelming — factually, emotionally, spiritually," he said. "You need a little breather just to take in and absorb it, and maybe even to be able to discuss with others what you saw that day." Rosenthal said the organizers would look into the suggestion, but noted that adding four days would increase costs by 40 percent. "Now you're at a $4,500 trip," he said. "That's a lot of money" All in all, it was a "fabulous mission on a lot of different levels," according to participant Robert Aronson, executive vice president of the sponsoring Jewish Federation of Metropolitan Detroit. "If you ask everybody what could have been done differently, some may have said that we programmed too much into each day, but frankly, I'd rather have that comment than the comment, 'Gee, we had too much time sitting around our hotel,'" he said. "That would not be a comment I would want to hear." D Additional coverage of Michigan Miracle Mission III is .on pages 40-42. Adrien Chandler A visitor sifts and savors the many layers of modern Israel. ADRIEN CHANDLER Special to the Jewish News T el" is the perfect word to define Israel. It means "old" but also is used to describe the multi-layered archeo- logical digs that dot the Israeli land- scape. It's an appropriate term because this is a complex, layered country, and no first-time, whirlwind visit could begin to unearth and process it all. I expected to be fascinated by the history and the archeology, but I was- n't prepared to be so affected by Israel itself— its people, its spirit and its energy. Casual observation spells out some of the contradictions here. Old and new, modern and traditional, co- exist side by side. Walk the streets of Jerusalem and against the backdrop of antiquity you see Israelis scurrying by, cell phones glued to their ears. One minute you're studying a 2,000-year- old ruin, the next you're stuck in a very contemporary traffic jam. You see the Orthodox in their black hats and coats, punkish-looking teens wearing leather and smoking cigarettes, and soldiers with automatic rifles slung across their backs. We were given a glimpse into the complexity of the Israeli national psy- che by being there on Holocaust RemeMbrance Day and Israel Independence Day — a roller-coaster experience that careens from solemn to joyful in one 24-hour period. I was in Tel Aviv's Rabin Square when the remembrance siren sounded. For two minutes, nothing moved, no one spoke. People got our of their cars and stood there — their heads bowed in respect. I've never seen an entire country simultaneously galvanized in memoriam, but it makes sense. No one in Israel hasn't been touched by the bloody battles to survive. Then at sundown, the holiday and the mood shift radically. The country turns into one big block parry.