Business treat like gefilte fish, which might take someone three hours to make, plus three or four hours to do a tsimmes (traditional side dish). Women just don't have time for that anymore, and, of course, many don't know how. "Our a la carte orders are the most popular, especially desserts, which require special Passover equipment to make. These orders cover 90 per- cent of the business and range from $30 to $100 per order." With Congregation Shaarey Zedek (about 1,800 families) as its base, Quality Kosher Catering this year will sell about 100 roasted turkeys (at $54.95), 6,000 matzah balls, 4,000 orders of gefilte fish, 3,000 orders of potato kugel, 3,000 orders of tzimmes (70 to one family alone), and loads of desserts, led by seven- On the day of the first seder (March 31 this year), Kohn operates a food pickup system that would rival an automotive plant assembly line. Pickup stations, color-coded to the type of meal or side dish, are spread out in a Shaarey Zedek social hall, with chefs at each station to assist. Using their color-coded sheet, cus- tomers move around the stations, get- ting separate bags of items. Rented supermarket shopping carts and youngsters help take the orders to cars. "Before we switched to this system, there was chaos and long lines when we opened at 10 a.m.," said Kohn, a pioneer computer user going back to his pre-catering days as a high school science teacher. "Now, all of the orders are computerized. The old sys- tem didn't work once we achieved Increasingly, families are looking to outside food help to buy some time or Passover. BILL CARROLL Special to The Jewish News T he bedraggled husband comes home from work and asks: "What's for din- ner, honey?" The equally bedraggled wife, who just arrived home from her job, answers: "You have three choices ... eat out, carry out or thaw out." In modern Passover seders, the choice, more and more, appears to be carry out." While the great majority of Jewish women in the Detroit area still make their seders "from scratch," there is a growing demand for catered" seders. At many homes, when the youngest child asks: "Why is this night different than all other nights?" the answer could be: It isn't. Were carrying out tonight, too." The reasons are relatively easy to understand: More women are work- ing today and don't have time to pre- pare the seders, or even kasher the home for Passover. "I used to work so hard getting ready for Passover that I would fall asleep during the seders," lamented C C (( Lee Herskovic of West Bloomfield, a veteran of the big do-it-yourself seders of Passovers past. She simply ran out of koyach (energy) and now carries out most of the meal and enjoys the evening more. Coming to the rescue are the kosher caterers, led by Paul G. Kohn's Quality Kosher Catering — the undisputed king of seder carryout. This year, he will handle One of Sperber 's Passovee: Serts. about 1,000 customers, whose full dinner orders layer cake and mocha tortes. will range from $13.95 for grilled To insure the freshness of the fish, chicken to $18.95 for prime rib, Kohn sends his own truck to whole- reflecting a steady 8-10 percent salers near the Mackinac Bridge to increase in Passover business each year bring back fish that has been out of since he started his catering operation the water only a few hours, rather in 1981. than several days. "In catering language, we call it the Because of lack of space in the syn- home replacement meal," explained agogue kitchen, stacks of desserts are Kohn, "and the Passover part of the prepared, loaded into trucks and sent catering business is growing more and to a nearby refrigeration company for more each year. storage until pre-Passover delivery "For some people, this is the only time. time of the year they eat an ethnic 200 orders per Passover. Many orders now are being faxed to us, usually from the husband or wife's E office, and a few people even are using e-mail." Two dozen part-time employees are added to the staff in the weeks before the holiday, to help kasher the kitchen and prepare the food. We try to be as methodical as possible, but there are still some problems, such as peo- ple who order past the deadline because the host broke a leg or got sick," Kohn reflected. "One time, on pickup day, a woman called us from, a phone on a commercial plane with a last-minute panic order. But we were ready because we always prepare extra food. Then it makes us feel good when people call later to thank us for the delicious dinners." Seder orders also are piling in this year at Sperber Kosher Catering, according to owner Alan Linker, now in his third year of providing holiday a: 3/26 1999 Detroit Jewish News 77