Signature Of Chanukah Lathes hit the big time as fancy, specialty entrees and desserts. LINDA MOREL Special to The Jewish News p otato latkes are Chanukah's signature dish, not because of the potato but because of the oil. Potatoes did not exist in the Holy Land when the ancient Israelites tri- umphed over the Syrians. During what may have been the region's first oil crisis, a 24-hour supply of oil lasted eight days. For that reason, oil is the heart of Snazzy desert latkes are trend-setting. Chanukah, and any food fried in oil, no matter how sweet, is a fitting tribute for the celebration. While there is evidence that the custom of making latkes from pota- toes originated in Russia, innovative Jewish cooks have extended the repertoire for centuries. Adding sugar to late-harvest produce, they've created sensational desserts. The Viennese, the dessert mavens of the world, were not con- tent to leave latkes in skillets. Elevating them to creamy crepes layered with applesauce, they concocted a torte as elegant as Vienna, a perfect finale to dairy meals. Linda Morel writes for the Jewish Telegraphic Agency. 12/4 1998 114 Detroit Jewish News Like carrot cakes, carrot latkes have hit the dessert circuit, too. Infused with vanilla and almonds, they are dusted with confectioners sugar. Don't worry if they cool; they're irresistible at room tempera- ture, too. Inspired by seasonal fruit, cran- berry latkes are an American contri- bution to Chanukah cuisine. With orange juice and raisins playing counterpoint to tart berries, they burst with piquant flavor. Lacking razzle-dazzle, it's time starchy potato pancakes stepped aside. Sizzled in oil, snazzy dessert latkes are both trend-setting and traditional. VIENNESE LAYER LATICES 2 16-ounce jars applesauce 1/2 t cinnamon 1/4 t nutmeg 1/4 t ground cloves 1/4 c brown sugar 6 eggs 2 c small-curd cottage cheese 1/4 c sweet butter, melted; plus 4 pats 6 T flour 1/4 t salt 1 t sugar 1/2 t vanilla Stick-free cooking spray 1 c walnuts, finely ground Confectioners sugar 1. Combine applesauce, spices and brown sugar in saucepan. Boil over medium heat, stirring often. Let cool. 2. In large bowl, place eggs, beating until foamy. 3. Add cheese, quarter-cup but- ter, flour, salt, sugar and vanilla, beating well. 4. Divide batter into eight bowls. 5. Coat an eight-inch, non-stick frying pan and an eight-inch springform pan with cooking spray. 6. Place frying pan on medium flame, melting half pat of butter. 7. Pour batter from first bowl into frying pan, spreading evenly. 8. Brown lightly. Turn crepe, browning on other side. 9. Move crepe to springform pan. Coat with applesauce. Sprinkle with walnuts. 10. Repeat steps 6-9, layering eight crepes. 11. Bake 10 minutes at 350 degrees, until heated through. Take from oven, place on plate, and remove sides. Sprinkle with confectioners sugar. Cut into 10 wedges. CARROT LATKES 4 large carrots, grated 1/2 c blanched almonds, finely grated 2 eggs 1/2 c flour 1/2 t vanilla 3 T sugar Corn oil Confectioners sugar 1. In large bowl, mix carrots, almonds, eggs, flour, vanilla and sugar. 2. On medium flame, heat oil in 2 large skillets, adding as needed. 3. By scant tablespoons, drop batter in skillet, flattening with spoon. 4. Turn when golden, repeating until both sides brown, about 12 minutes. Don't undercook. 5. Drain on paper towels. 6. Dust with confection- ers' sugar. Yield 24. CRANBERRY LATKES 12-ounce bag cranberries 1/2 box golden raisins 1/2 c orange juice 2 c sugar 1 c flour 2 eggs Corn oil Whipped cream or non-dairy whipped topping 1. In large pot, simmer cranberries in three- quarters cup water, until they pop. 2. Add raisins, juice and sugar, mixing well. Boil until mixture thickens, about 1 5 minutes. Let cool. 3. Add flour and eggs, mixing with large spoon. 4. In two skillets, heat oil on low flame. 5. Drop batter by tablespoons into skillets, flattening with spoon. 6. Turn when golden. As latkes can burn, turn often until both sides are light brown yet soft (about 20 minutes). 7. Drain on paper towels. 8. Serve with whipped topping. Yield 36. ❑