omeone in the kitchen is thinking. -
Trying new things — chargrilled
N.Y. strip steak on a bed of
carmelized onions and roasted
peppers, grilled fresh. (They mean it.)
Salmon with corn salsa!"
1-inuR ThEyR31T

CC

place is making
A a small
name for itself'

The Best Of Everything

17N7v7\17'5K 1 7 4

An Italian restaurant undergoes a renaissance.

• -1

Angle

Rd

West Maple

14 Mile

sponge cake with vanilla bourbon
others became instant hits.
little bit of old Detroit adds
syrup, semi-sweet chocolate mousse
In the hands of a chef such as Lee,
striking charm to the newly
and red berries.
a 24- to 26-ounce porterhouse steak,
refurbished interior and
Seating at Baci Italian Chop House
takes on another dimension in taste
newly renamed Baci Italian
is
170
on two levels ... plus the
with tender goodness that has made it
Chop House.
bar/lounge
with 50 seats set up for
a big favorite.
The former Baci Abracci on Pil.,
dining
... This is where
Lee has been a certified
Street in Pontiac is now a veritable
Alexander Zonjic and his
executive chef for 12 years ...
memorabilia, museum ... In the
six-piece group plays for
receiving his certification from
bar/lounge area are two 8-foot Chi-
dancing on Friday and Sat-
the American Gourmet Federa-
nese Foo dog statues that used to
urday evenings ... and
tion in Florida ... As a graduate
flank each side of one of the former
big favorite Barry Ellstein is
of the Culinary Institute of
J.L. Hudson elevators ... Three light
both lounge manager and
America in Hyde Park, his cre-
fixtures are from Kern's Department
head bartender.
ativity is apparent ... along
Store ... Two Venus figurines that sat
Three hundred more can
with the traditional Italian
in alcoves on each side of the entry
be
accommodated on the
dishes and impressive array of
doors are from Saks Fifth Avenue on
upstairs
level, which features
D ANNY
pastas.
Second Boulevard ... A huge urn,
the
"Tony
n' Tina's Wed-
RA SKIN
Lee's crispy Moroccan
about six feet high and four feet
ding"
presentation
by David
salmon is another of a number Local Columnist
around, is also from Hudson's.
Nederlander,
beginning
of dishes that nobody else pre-
But this is only a portion of the
Dec. 3 ... Show times
pares ... the filet is pan-seared
new Baci Italian Chop House story ...
Thursdays and Fridays is 7:30 p.m. ...
in Moroccan spices ... Even the
Beyond the bevy of striking decor
Saturdays and Sundays, 2 and 6:30
desserts made by him are standouts ...
standouts, there is the almost corn-
p.m.
An original of Lee's is the chocolate
plete turnabout that has happened at
Consistency is a keynote in Lee's
hurricane chiffon cake that is out-
the restaurant owned by Nino
preparations
... And it is always quite
standing ... soaked in Grand Marnier,
Cutraro, who opened the formerly-
a
delight
to
know
that the dish you
layered with chocolate mousse and
named Baci Abracci in early Decem-
enjoyed
will
have
that
same goodness
served with a raspberry sauce and a
ber 1997 ... Brother Luigi Cutraro,
next
time.
vanilla custard sauce ... Also his
Nino's brother, is his general manager.
The prepping of fish, steaks, chick-
chocolate Charlotte ... chocolate
The main happening
en and chops is all done on the
occurred when Nino lured Exec-
premises at Baci ... Lee will
-
utive Chef Lee Vulaj from
have it no other way.
Larco's Chop House in Troy,
Pasta fagioli, which pairs with
where he had been a nine-year
minestrone as the favored
mainstay ... The creative flair has
soups, is made as it should be
pushed Baci's cuisine into a
... chock-full of Tuscan beans,
much higher realm.
carrots, celery, tomatoes,
Lee arrived with seven
onions, sage and garlic in a veg-
helpers, almost the entire
etable broth ... It's an outstand-
kitchen staff, including his exec-
ing northern white bean soup
with a strong garlic flavor, so
utive sous chef brother, Zog
Vulaj ... and immediately joined
distinct in its simplicity.
into a partnership with Nino.
Baci Italian Chop House is
The first thing he did when
an elegant restaurant with a lot
coming aboard, after changing
of casual charm amidst the
the name, was to alter the entire
white linen tablecloths and
kitchen setup to promote a more
white linen napkins.
Servers enjoy a training pro-
productive line ... This enabled
gram that includes Lee explain-
him and his staff to present
dishes that invited even greater
ing how the dishes are prepared
... The waitpersons have daily
satisfaction for discriminating
tastings that better enable them
taste buds.
Items like Lee's fresh Chilean
to answer questions ... This bit
of knowledge does much in
sea bass steamed in champagne
helping them be better servers ...
and served over potatoes, leeks
to say nothing about providing
and shittake ... manicotti Napo-
an excellent service to customers.
letana, pasta filled with fresh
Lee Vulaj and Nino Cutraro of Baci Italian Chop House.
spinach and ricotta cheese, and

A

Pontiac Trail

Walled
Lake

West Rd.

Walled lake or

WHERE QOM FRIES 5
GET SERVED G881) F881)

1050 Benstein Road, Walled Lake, MI

248-669-2122

Open for Lunch & Dinner

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(1 3 11 3it il

TRAYS
DINING ROOM • CARRY-OUT

BB BAR-B-QUE
HOUSE
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Bar-E
B-N

Checkeo
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(is
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968-7427
(248)

Lincoln Shopping Center
10-1/2 Mile Road & Greenfield
Oak Park ■ (248) 968-0022

Breakfast ■ Lunch • Dinner
After-Theater • Kiddie Menu

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11/27

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