The Blues Club hops through the wee hours of the morning in downtown Memphis' music district. emphis Situp A New Song Not only a treasure chest of history, Tennessee's belle of a city shines with a fresh future and a thriving Jewish community. SUSAN R. POLLACK Special to The Jewish News B y day, Stephen Wachtel is a mild-mannered professor of obstetrics and gynecology and head of reproductive genetics at the University of Tennessee, Memphis. By night, you'll find him jamming on Beale Street, playing his saxo- phone on stage at the Center for Southern Folklore, an eclectic club/archive/boutique. The only white and Jewish member of the Daddy Mack Blues Band, he also sits in at times with Center regular Mose Vinson, an octogenarian blues piano legend who is blind in one eye. When he's not boogey- ing on Beale, the white- haired Wachtel, 61, plays clarinet in the Kolenu Klezmer Band, specializ- 11/20 1998 124 Detroit Jewish News ing in Hassidic folk tunes, "not Jewish blues," he says with a laugh. The band, whose name means Our Voice," entertains primarily in east Memphis, where the Baron Hirsch synagogue ranks as the nation's largest Orthodox congregation, with more than 900 families. Memphis, home to some 9,000 Jews overall, also boasts the highest affiliation rare of any U.S. Jewish community — "87 percent, maybe even higher," according to Rabbi Rafael Grossman of Baron Hirsch. He credits the city's strong Jewish institu- tions and tradition, dating back more than 150 years. And, he adds, "Memphis is a religious community. The Christians are mostly devour ... and when the Orthodox community is strong and viable, it impacts on the rest." Yes, even in Memphis — this "Y'all come back now" mid-South center of Bibles, blues and barbecue — Jewish culture is alive and thriving, a success- ful mix of lox and grits. The rest of this Mississippi River community of 1.1 million is energized as well. Once down and out following the 1968 assassination here of Dr.