Sweet On Cooking For $25, you can impress family and guests throughout the year with Marcy Goldman's new baking cookbook. CHANUKAH JELLY DOUGHNUTS (SOUFGANIYOT) MAICES 2 TO 2 1/2 DOZEN DOUGHNUTS, DEPENDING ON SIZE Easy to prepare in advance (the dough can be refrigerated the day before fry- ing), these plain or jelly-filled dough- nuts are a favorite treat in Israel and a sweet alternative to the traditional Chanukah latkes, or potato pancakes. No one ever says no to doughnuts, and this two-biteful variety fits any appetite perfectly. You can sprinkle fine sugar over the doughnuts or fill them with jelly, as is more traditional. ANNABEL COHEN Special to The Jewish. News otato latkes are the "It" food of Chanukah. A mere utter of - Chanukah," and most thoughts not only zoom into the historical -rededication" mode which defines this eight-day festival; but they also envision a plateful of latkes. It's easy to add to the miracle of the oil when there's the miracle of the latke to reflect upon — hot, crispy, delicious. But to limit your repertoire to a singular culinary note is an injustice to both your palate and the other food traditions that represent this celebra- tion. It's here where Marcy Goldman's A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking (Doubleday, $25) can enlighten. Treasury dishes up baking, i.e., breads and sweet endings for each Jewish hol- iday's baking customs. Goldman gives us Soufganiyot, fried jelly-doughnuts that are custom- arily served this season, especially in Israel. She also includes treats made with cheese, another Chanukah cus- tom. Recipes like Chocolate Cream Cheese Rugelach and Halvah Filo Cheesecakes get fusion revisions. Other recipes rely more on decoration and packaging to skew them toward specific holidays. Kids' Chanukah cookies, for example, are simply sugar cookies besprinkled with candy or decorated for the season. Besides the 180 recipes, there are plenty of useful baking tricks, hints po 11/20 1998 1122 Detroit Jewish News ksalINWiadeb A New cookbook explores a vane of fewish baking traditions. and holiday information. Among these tidbits are holiday dates and seasons, traditions, explanations of why certain foods are befitting cer- tain holidays, and helpful cooking notes peppered throughout regarding ingredients and baking methods. Goldman provides useful discourse about ovens, parchment paper, pots, pans and kitchen tools. So are Soufganiyot going to replace the latke as the food symbol of Chanukah? It's doubtful. But contrary to what many may think, one cannot live on latkes alone (even with sour cream and applesauce). The following recipes from Goldman's book will illuminate your Chanukah table while offering deli- cious twists on tradition. Dough 1/2 cup warm water 5 tsp. dry yeast 1/3 cup plus a pinch of granulated sugar 1 cup warm milk or water 1 tsp. vanilla extract 2 eggs 1/3 cup vegetable oil or melted vegetable shortening 1 1/2 tsp. salt 4 1/4 - 5 cups all-purpose flour Vegetable oil, for frying Filling 2 cups jam or jelly of your choice, at room temperature (optional) Granulated or confectioners' sugar (optional) Dough: In a large mixing bowl, stir together the warm water, yeast and pinch of sugar. Allow the mixture to stand for a couple of minutes to allow the yeast to swell or dissolve. Stir in