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9/25
1998

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96 Detroit Jewish News

The Best Of Everything

Il Gabbiano let's you direct the chef.

beforehand are the tomato sauce and
new concept in Italian din-
meat sauce ... All others are as orders
ing may have been started
are placed.
by a couple of young men
The restaurant closes during the
in Windsor ... And perhaps
week from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. so it can
without them even realizing it.
have fresh food for the evening ...
II Gabbiano is on East Erie Street,
There are no deep fryers ... Calamari,
between Elsmore and Parent in the
for example, is grilled, not deep-fried.
mile-long Via Italia district. The two
Butter is very rarely used ... Almost
chef/owners, Joe Fallea and Jonathan
all preparations are butter-free ... It is
Reaume, operate what might
rare to see a menu that is so
be considered a create-it-your-
healthy ... No frying, no
self-style Italian restaurant,
preservatives, no additives,
with most substitutions and
no MSG, and a lot of grilled
additions at no added charge.
items.
Or, customers may order
Seating is for 150 on two
exactly as is on menu.
floors ... with white linen
In either case, dining at II
tablecloths and white linen
Gabbiano has been a well-
napkins ... Downstairs has
received one.
large floor-to-ceiling windows
The fellows initially met
DAN NY
and seven bar stools ...
while down the street at the
RA SKIN
Upstairs has a mural on can-
former locale of Il Gabbiano,
Local Columnist vas affixed to a wall, and an
which moved to its present
over-2,000-bottle wine room.
location Feb. 3, 1997 ... And
Il Gabbiano is open Tuesday
became partners in a most successful
through Friday, 11:30 to 2 for lunch
venture.
and 5 to 10 for dinner; Saturday, 5 to
They also have a -featured soup that
10; Sunday, 4 to 9.
for many seems to have taken the
Biggest entree seller is the linguine
place of minestrone ... It is a tradi-
mare monte, noodles with mushrooms
tional Italian standby, no stranger, but
and shrimp in a tomato sauce ... Also
isn't found at many Italian restaurants
heavily ordered are the pappadelle al
because of not being easy to make ...
sapore di bosco, noodles in a light
And must absolutely be fresh to be
Porcini mushroom sauce ... Linguine
good ... Pasta fagioli at II Gabbiano is
con pesto, basil pesto with or without
far from a broth with noodles and a
few scattered beans and vegeta-
bles ... Theirs is chock full of
Roma beans, carrots, onions, cel-
ery, crushed tomatoes, noodles,
etc. ... Much like minestrone but
with a fuller body than most.
Joe and Jonathan have a thing
about not serving minestrone
soup all the time ... They feel the
vegetables don't hold their texture
if made too far in advance ...
The fellows will, however, make
minestrone soup fresh to order ...
given a day's notice ... Probably
to have the correct ingredients on
hand.
Back to the customizing,
which both Joe and Jonathan are
capable of doing ... Any item list-
ed on the menu can be adjusted
... made easy because the dishes .
at Il Gabbiano, except those that
require marinating, are made to
order ... The only sauces prepared Il Gabbianos Joe Fallea and Jonathan Reaume.

prosciutto ... And sauteed shrimp in a
light cream or wine sauce.
Il Gabbiano has a shrimp dish that
calls for the jumbo variety ... but is
much more than just that ... The large
shrimp are sauteed in a lemon garlic
herb sauce, white wine and fresh
tomato to bring out a fine taste.
Thirty gallons a week of its favorite
appetizer is sold ... marinated eggplant
that Joe and John take added pride in
making ... grilled and then marinated.
Their veal al limone is somewhat
like the traditional piccata, but pre- .0
pared in olive oil — no butter — and
made with or without mushrooms ...
Another big favorite not found at too
many Italian restaurants is the time-
honored veal pizzaoilo in fresh tomato
and oregano sauce.
If you have preferences, maybe
some capers or gorganzano beans in
your food, the substitution will be
honored ... most times without charge
... And if it is something the fellows
don't have, not to worry ... they'll just
go across the street and get it at the
Italian market.
Via Italia on Erie Street is loaded
with Italian restaurants ... II Gabbiano
is one of the good ones.
THE RECENT closing of Ernest
Larco Italian restaurant in Orchard 1'0
Mall comes less than a year after it
opened ... Jan. 2.

' 19