4,0 Michigan's finest upscale, yet casual American bistro The Best Of Everything Savor the taste that is the talk of the town Authentic Middle East flavor and a kosher heksher. "Oakland Grill gets wows for class act." — Observer & Eccentric tells of being born in Ashkelon, Israel, toes stuffed with veal) sided by very south of Tel Aviv, and coming to the heavy leaning on the Middle Eastern United States in 1984 ... After his style. stint as a dishwasher, he was a cook at But other specialties aren't neglect- s a lad of 16, he came here Denny's and Christopher's in Toledo, ed ... Like salmon patties, schnitzel, from his native Israel and and at Alia's here. meat loaf, stuffed peppers with washed dishes in a Big Boy It was at Alia's that he or without meat, fried chicken, restaurant. met John Murdoch, his pre- gefilte fish, baked chicken, It was the beginning of a career sent chef who assists Ofer in chopped liver, etc. that would ultimately make his dream making the many foods "Those who have been in come true. from Ofer's recipes. Israel know how wonderful the From that moment, Ofer Ohana Taste of Israel now seats food is," says regular customer has wanted to own a restaurant ... 70 people at 25 tables ... By Rabbi Alon Tolwin. "Its dis- And today that fulfillment is a reality. the end of this year, Ofer tinctive flavors are something There has been continuous talk expects. to have the entire that Taste of Israel has cap- about kosher restaurants opening former Lakewood area seat- tured." again in the Northwest area. D ANN ing about 200. There are two ways of While the well-intended and hope- RA SKIN At present, a back section ordering at Taste of Israel .... fully well-meaning lip service is going Local Columnist now contains many Israeli on, a little carry-out quietly adds more People can go to the counters, specialty items which Ofer select their food, and it will be tables to what has become a full-ser- has retained as a convenience. brought to their table ... Or customers vice, sit-down, glatt kosher restaurant While Israeli music plays in the may sit down immediately and a serv- ... Open for breakfast, lunch and din- background, people who recognize the er will take their order. ner. food and those who just want the type When it opened July 9, 1997, Taste Taste of Israel on Greenfield, south of home cooking it affords, enjoy spe- of Israel was strictly a carry-out opera- of I-696, may not be the most preten- cials like lamb chops, meat pies, fish tion with one-half the space ... Then tious place, but it is what others have and chips, portobella said they would open ... sandwich, hot turkey A bona fide kosher and hot beef sandwich- restaurant. es and 12 more in pita No frills ... Nothing or baguette, short ribs, fancy ... No fine linen Salisbury steak, soups tablecloths and napkins (matzah ball, pea, veg- ... No opulent booths ... etable, navy bean, Just good kosher food in lentil, chicken), kugels a clean environment. (noodle, apple, potato, As the name suggests, salt and pepper), etc. Taste of Israel leans Biggest sellers are mainly toward the foods the shwarmah and of that nation. kafta, but each day a Hummus (chickpea different special is fea- dip), tahini (sesame seed tured ... One item, paste), pita (Arab pock- chicken pot pie on et bread), and falafel Thursdays, is a typical (fried chickpea balls) are sellout ... But not typically Middle Eastern before regulars like dishes which became Sandy Margolis have Israeli by adoption. had theirs. All are at Taste of Ofer says that Israel along with nobody here makes shwarmah (turkey sea- Taste of Israers Ofer Ohana. Moroccan eggplant ... soned with lamb), Israeli And prides himself on kafta (spiced ground his having the same flavor as gotten at Ofer took over the former Lakewood lamb and beef char-grilled and served open-air markets in Israel. shuk the Market next door in September and on two skewers). His chatzilem looks similar to the his restaurant grew from 2,200 square The cooking at Taste of Israel is Arabic baba ganoush, but has an feet to 4,400 square feet. geared to Israeli and Moroccan ways entirely different and distinct flavor... People have asked if, with a name (meatballs cooked with carrots and Ofer's eggplant is made with mayon- like Ohana, he wasn't Irish or Hawai- peas; eggplant and matboohah, naise ... And he says that his Moroc- ian ... Ofer noddingly smiles as he cooked tomatoes and peppers; pota- DANNY RASKIN Local Columnist A "Our meal at Oakland Grill was exceptional and it left us talking about our food all weekend long." — Oakland Press DECK NOW OPEN! Buy One Entree At Regular Price Get Second Entree Equal or Lesser Value HALF THE PRICE • Dine In Only • With Coupon • One Coupon Per Couple • Not Valid With Other Offers L Expires 7/31/98 JN SERVING LUNCH & DINNER TUESDAY - SUNDAY 32832 Woodward ► Royal Oak Oust south of 14 Mile Rd.) 7/24 1998 (248) 549-7700 92 DetrOit Jewish News