".. More Inside: > HEALTH, TRAVEL, SPORTS, FOOD Sports: In a league of their own. Travel: Year-long camp" for adults. Health: Taking pain out of vasectomy. Elm UP IN 9 ' Inventive cooks are redefining the art of skewer-and-grill. ro ANNABEL COHEN Special to The Jewish News fierce it, thread it, stab it or skewer it and toss it on the grill. Any way you kebab it, it's a great and easy way to cook this summer. Some call them shashlik. Others refer to kebabs as spiedini, souvlakia, satays or brochettes, as well as other names we'll probably never learn. Ever since prehistoric man first stabbed meat with a stick and held it over fire, it's likely been the most popular cooking method. And eons later, after microwaves and convection ovens and forks and knives, little can compare to the gratifying flavor of bite-sized morsels lightly charred over an open flame. What has changed, however, is what makes up the meal on a stick. What was once limited to raw flesh with a few unimaginative vegetables has turned into endless variety and countless varia- tions. Inventive cooks are pushing the limits with heretofore unheard of combos. Caesar salad on a stick? Why not? Len Mazor is as innovative as they come when preparing a kebab. "If it's in my refrigerator or cupboard," he said, "chances are it's been on a skewer and grilled, especially since I usually don't shop for food. I come home, I'm hungry, and I make do with whatever. I've even grilled leftovers." Mazor and Lynn Deitch are perpetual kebabers at their Birmingham home. "I finally hooked up a gas line from the house to the barbecue so I would never run out of fuel," said Mazor. "Now we can cook on the spur of the moment and fast." He doesn't depend on fixed plans. "I don't have recipes, I have inspirations," he never over-think a kebab. If I have time, I said. marinate. If I don't, I just season at the last minute with just a little kosher salt and pepper or whatever salad dressing, mustard or sauce I have in the house. "Sometimes, when I make fruit kebabs, I just brush a little melted jam or preserves over the fruit the last minute or two of cooking. Because you're seasoning each bite of food, the marinade doesn't necessarily have to soak into a big hunk of meat. Besides, just the cooking over a flame gives food a fabulous flavor — everything else is a bonus." When it comes to food variety, Mazor's reper- toire is infinite. From appetizers to entrees and side dishes to desserts, his only rule is, keep it Simple. "I don't stack 12 different things on a skewer," he said. "First of all, most foods take different amounts of time to cook; a potato takes longer than zucchini. And I always cook chicken longer than fish. "Secondly, I like how a skewer with one or two things looks; you can really see the pattern." Given a choice, Mazor opts for metal skewers, which come in a variety of artistic designs. "They hold up under the intense heat of the grill and you can fit more food on metal skewers," he said. "Bamboo ends tend to burn and break and, unless I serve a crowd, the food looks 'so interest- ing on the metal skewers." Although Mazor seldom uses recipes for his kebabs, most of us feel better knowing at least