JNEntertainment

Michigan's finest upscale,
yet casual American bistro
Savor the taste that is the
talk of the town

The Best Of Everything

Ernest Larco combines great Detroit tradition and taste.

"Oakland Grill gets wows for
class act." — Observer & Eccentric

`Oakland Grill's food and service
— Detroit Free Press

..•

"Our meal at Oakland Grill was
exceptional and it left us talking
about our food all weekend long.",
— Oakland Press

DECK
OPENS

May 1st

Open for Lunch & Dinner
7 Days A Week!

32832 Woodward

■

Royal Oak

(]usf south of 14 Mile Rd.)

5/1
1998

136

(248) 549-7700

OM LUNCH & DINNER DAILY

DANNY RASKIN
Local Columnist

L

iving up to a reputation is
tough ... very tough ... Liv-
ing up to a great name is
even tougher.
In the case of Ernest Larco restau-
rant in the Orchard Mall, Orchard
Lake Road just north of Maple, one
reputation and one name are just part
of the work cut out for cousins Ernest
"Duke" Larco and Chris Rado.
There's more.
Duke's father was Nick Larco, who
opened Larco's Inn on Six Mile and
San Juan in 1953 with brothers Pete
and Mike.
They had moved to Detroit from
Old Orchard Beach, Maine, when
their father, Ernest Larco, who owned
a restaurant there, passed on.
Nick and Pete went to Lelli's ...
which they left and opened Larco's
Inn with a third brother, Mike, and
Mark "Schmaltzy" Colangelo, whose
wife, Rose, was sister to the three
brothers ... Also in it were Jimmy Ney,
who married their sister, Antoinette;
and Irene Lelli, Nick, Pete and Mike's
third sister.
His cousin, and present partner,
Chris Rado, was Schmaltzy's grandson
and learned to cook from Mike Lelli
while working there seven years in the
kitchen ... Chris's father, Chris Rado
Sr., was maitre d' at Larco's on Six
Mile, and ran the floor with Mike.
Duke also worked at the Six Mile
Larco's Inn with his dad, Nick, Uncle
Pete and Uncle Mike, all of whom
have passed on.
At Mike's passing in 1982, many of
his friends planted trees in Jewish
National Fund forests in Israel ...
They knew this was one of Mike's pet
charities (he had many). Duke learned
the bar from Mike ... cooking from
Pete and Nick ... and butchering from
Nick.
One of the most difficult tasks in
any business is trying to live up to a
name.
In the restaurant game, more times
than not, others have failed to cash in
on a time-honored monogram.
Having a great surname in the
restaurant business is only as good as
the food, its presentation and service.

You can forget about success with-
dinner only, and as would be expect-
out these three very important restau-
ed, served over 2,500 people in the
ry
rant assets that go along with the
first week.
wonderful Larco's and Lelli's reputa-
Most of the customers who came
tions for cleanliness.
that first week have returned ... And
A name that is full of pride
many are regulars who now
in customer satisfaction is
come two and three times a
worth its weight in gold ... But
week.
the proven fact is customers
They see a great similari-
returning after that first curi-
ty with the Larco's Inn of
ous visit ... and "Let me see!"
yesteryear ... And like an
attitude.
added big bonus thrown in,
Being in an area surrounded
there's the Lelli's touch, too.
by people who know of the
Especially with the excel-
former Larco's Inn on W.
lent minestrone soup and so
McNichols and San Juan ...
many memorable dishes.
D ANNY
and so many who have eaten
The filet that folks always
RA SKIN
there ... is somewhat of a
talk about with the uncanny
Local Columnist
barometer upon which to
zip sauce taste and tender-
guide a person's opinion.
ness that brings back a lot
The test for Ernest Larco has been,
of memories, is naturally one of
and still is, a very stringent one
Ernest Larco's biggest sellers ... As are
because of this.
the porterhouse, New York strip,
I, for one, was a regular at the for-
sliced tenderloin and medallions ... all
mer Larco's Inn and can attest that
with the luscious zip.
Ernest Larco has done right by this
Going through more than 1,500
most revered restaurant name.
pounds of beef a week is nothing ...
And serving over
100 pieces of
Dover sole in a
week has become
standard.
Best seller at
the old Larco's Inn
was veal Colom-
bo, originated by
Pete Larco, who
named it after one
of his friends ... It
is also among the
biggest favorites at
Ernest Larco.
Duke and
Chris
go through
Ernest "Duke" Larco and Chris Rado.
over 400 pounds
of veal a week ...
And their piccata,
marsala, Siciliano, parmigiana,
The food is very good, its quality
Milanese, scaloppini, chop, etc., are
excellent, and the service leaves little
traditional specialties that have won
to be desired.
over a lot of people.
Being one of the lucky ones to
Seating is for 240 in two rooms
know and highly respect the late
and a bar lounge area open seven days
Larco brothers, I am very careful in
a week ... Lunch, Monday through
lauding anyone using the Larco name
Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. ... Dinner
... The brothers meant a lot to me ...
on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday,
So it is with much pleasure that I say
4-10 p.m.; Thursday, Friday and Sat-
that Ernest Larco passes with flying
urday, 4 p.m. to midnight; Sunday, 3-
colors.
9 p.m.
The new restaurant opened Jan. 2,