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MOLLY AROST STAUB
Special to The Jewish News
Gourmet Coffee
Beans
100°/0 Arabica
Regular or Decaf-
feinated
Over 70 Flavors
We Roast ...
The Freshest Coffee in Town
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The Many Faces
Of The Marais In Paris
Reg. $2.89 lb., Limit 2 lbs.
limit 2 lbs.
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• TAHINI • HOUMMOUS • EGG PLANT SALAD
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• PLUS MANY 0
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Reg. $1.09 • Limit 6 pkgs.
CHOCOLATE RAISINS
$199
SUNKIST
FRUIT GEMS
S199
u3
Reg. $2.69 lb. • Limit 2 lbs.
LB.
O
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Batch the best
Music Reviews in
Entertainment
annies push perambulators
in the elegant Place des
Voges, built by Henry IV in
the 17th century. Lining
the symmetrical square stand 36
matching houses of immaculate white
stone and red brick, capped with steep
slate roofs pierced by dormer win-
dows. On the ground level beyond
arcades are cafes, art galleries and
smart shops like Issey Miyake. This is
the Marais in Paris.
Nearby, bearded, black-hatted men
hasten to synagogue services. Young
women, their sheitels often askew,
shout at passels of children trying to
dodge into the narrow street. Motor
scooters whiz by. Smells of cumin and
cinnamon, characteristic of African
cookery, waft through the air to those
trodding the narrow sidewalks. This,
too, is the Marais.
The hottest arrondissement (dis-
trict) in Paris is a study of contrasts...
The Marais is the scene of Parisian
Jewry's most colorful neighborhood,
with its hurly-burly feel, as well as a
quietly graceful park and additional
artful attractions. It offers as many
faces as a French coquette, and has
become a center for the avant-garde
and fashionable.
The Place des Voges, Paris's oldest
square, provides an urbane architec-
tural example of serenity that ele-
vated this formerly ugly, swampy
section. The area as it exists today
dates from the 17th and 18th cen-
turies, but was only restored begin-
ning in the 1960s. Apartments
rent for about $3,000 [U.S.] per
month. Sidewalks are often filled
with equipment for filming TV
stars for soap operas. The houses
have facades on the square, but
behind each are layers of liveabili-
ty: a private garden, then the
dwelling, another cobblestoned
courtyar, another facade and
finally the parallel street.
The courtyard of the Hotel
de Sully [hotel means man-
sion] (62 Rue St-Antoine),
built in 1625, is particular-
ly lovely; its owner sold
it to Sully, Henri IV's
former financial minis-
ter, to cover his gam-
bling debts.
Decorations
over the
windows
are typi-
N
cally Renaissance in style, with shells
and fruits as subjects, and allegories of
spring and winter. Concerts are some-
times held here.
In another house (#6), the modest
Victor Hugo Museum in the building
where the poet lived includes original
furnishings and book manuscripts. He
wrote The Hunchback of Notre Dame
here.
The Temple des Voges, at #14,
hosts a small congregation upstairs,
where men are separated from women.
A barely discernible door around
the corner from the Place des Voges
leads to the Rue de Turnelle syna-
gogue (#21), which hosts about 500
for Shabbat services. It's renowned for
its interior iron work, which is past its
prime; visitors overlook the smells of
the cooking from the shamus's [bea-
dle's] quarters.
Most of Paris's 350,000 Jews do not
live in the Pletzel, said Yves Camus,
director of public relations for the
Consistoire de Paris [an umbrella
organization that Camus said is equiv-
alent to the Union of Orthodox Con-
gregations]. They reside mostly in
western Paris in the fashionable 16th
district; the strictly religious, with
many children and lower income, live
in the 19th and 20th districts.
Nevertheless, the Pletzel, site of the
13th-century ghetto, consistently
lures Jewish visitors. There's an exot-
ic atmosphere, since North African
Orthodox Jews are highly visible
here. The area around the Rue de
Rossiers harbors a warren of kosher
restaurants; about 85 percent are
North African, reflecting the large
Jewish emigration since 1954 from
Morocco and Egypt. '
Others arrived after Israel's Six
Day War, not necessarily because
they were persecuted, Camus said,
but because they were uncomfort-
able in Muslim countries and
wanted a better life. Today the
area is home to 200 Orthodox
families. (Camus said there are
no problems between blacks
and Jews or Arabs and Jews. As
for anti-Semitism, he said peo-
ple aren't the targets of attacks,
but you feel it's there; the
right-wing party polls 14
percent of the vote, while
in Germany it gets only 6
percent. And about five
anti-Semitic bookstores
exist in Paris.)
Above the nar-
row, crooked
street with