Above: Salada de Palmito — hearts of palm salad vinaigrette. Left: Pudim de Leite — caramel 4 custard. A vegetarian Brazilian feast. ANNABEL COHEN Special to The Jewish News B razilians love their Brazil. Especially the cariocas, as Rio's inhabitants are called. Their affection for this mar- avilhosa (marvelous) city is everywhere — from the endless beaches opening to the Atlantic, to it's samba and sim- ple, yet richly flavorful, cuisine. A recent trip to Rio clq Janeiro, Brazil revealed that Brazil's Jews, most- ly first- and second-generation Brazilians of European descent, still make traditional "Jewish" foods like gefilte fish, matzah ball soup and kugel, but usually only on Shabbat and on Jewish hblidays. Otherwise, they love to eat Brazilian foods, especially the national dish, feijoada (fay-jho-ah- dah), a robust stew of black beans and meats served over fresh white rice. What's more, even though Brazil is 2/20 1998 128 Brazilian Jews find interesting ways to kosher the native cuisine. the world's largest Roman Catholic country, there is a growing interest among many Jews to embrace and for- tify their Jewishness. Part of this involves keeping a kosher home. This is no small task. Buying kosher foods involves special trips to the few tiny kosher butchers in this city of more than 5.5 million people. Most kosher butchers sell a sparse selection of mostly American-made produCts and meat and poultry. But, as Brazilians say, querer e poder, roughly translated as "where there's a will, there's a way." So while there's not much available in prepared kosher foods and mixes, there's an abundance of tropical vegetables and fruits — essential to the Brazilian palate. The typical Jewish Brazilian meal commonly includes a simplified feijo da, without all the meats (Brazilianl almost always use pork with their beans). Accompaniments include a requisite farofa, ground, toasted mar ioc (yucca or cassava) root flour spri t kled over the beans as both a foil to the spicy, hot stew and a means of thickening the beans so that they do not run over the plate. Other sides include grilled sliced meats, salads of sliced tomatoes or 4 watercress, hearts of palm, sliced oranges and a cold onion sauce, the Brazilian equivalent of salsa. The following recipes have been adapted to be part of a complete vet tarian meal, but are suitable as a cor SAMBA on page 130