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HADASSAH

2/20
1998

116

ONE MONTH IN ISRAEL
April 26—May 25, 1998 $2999. (p.p.d.o.)
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as they're strolling along Ashford
Avenue.
Another novelty was finding a
upscale restaurant with international
he bagels are temptingly dis-
cuisine, one where guests seeking kosher
played and in many varieties:
food are especially welcome.
onion, poppyseed, pumper-
The restaurant, also opened in 1996,
nickel, blueberry. The deli
is
named
in honor of owner Richard
items include three types of lox, smoked
Kleiman's
father, Isaac, whose nickname
fish of all sorts, whitefish salad, pastra-
is
Itches.
mi, gourmet cream cheese
Kleiman, a native of Puerto
s
Franco
France
spreads, and knishes, both round
Rico,
trained at the California
e
Big
of
th
and square.
Culinary Academy in San
Apple Bagel
Indeed, the Big Apple Bagel
and Deli.
Francisco and then worked in
& Deli has all the ingredients of
a French restaurant on the
a classic New York kosher deli —
island
before
he and George Cruz
except that it's located on a tropical
decided
to
open
their first restaurant.
island in the Caribbean.
Located
in
Guaynabo,
a 15-minute
Opened barely a year ago, the cheer-
drive
from
the
center
of
San
Juan, Itches
ful and casual deli is in sunny San Juan,
is a restaurant where the owner's Jewish
where Caribbean charm blends well
identity is quite evident. A mezuzah is
with New York-style deli fare. Located
on the door. Four paintings on display
at 1407 Ashford Avenue, in the heart of
the tourist area, it's a welcome discovery are by Israeli artist Shraga Weil. Another
is by Yossi Bergner, also an Israeli.
for tourists who hunger for bagels and
(Kleiman's wife Michal Rubinowitsch is
lox even in the Caribbean.
Israeli,
and his in-laws are art collec-
The Big Apple deli was one of our
tors).
culinary adventures during a recent trip
Kleiman wanted his menu to appeal
to Puerto Rico. Even though it's fun to
to a wide range of patrons. Besides the
sample the native cuisine during travels,
grilled kosher chicken (it's Empire
it's often even more of a challenge to
chicken), the ambitious menu features
seek out kosher cuisine. That is especial-
ly true in San Juan, with its emphasis • such items as breast of duck, medallions
of salmon with shallots; and sauteed
on Puerto Rican and Spanish-style
fresh cod with root vegetables, a Puerto
foods. But with some effort, we found
Rican dish.
two recently opened restaurants, both
Besides items on the menu, Kleiman
with kosher cuisine available.
can prepare dishes that his patrons espe-
For the Big Apple Bagel & Deli, the
cially request. The restaurant is also a
first and only kosher deli on the island,
popular choice for kosher luncheons or
owner Eric Charak spent a year plan-
ning; he's been busy ever since the open- dinners sponsored by Jewish groups, like 1
the Hadassah luncheons which are often
ing in 1996.
held here.
With a big apple as its logo, and
Whatever the occasion, the person-
posters of Manhattan on the walls, the
able owner is always eager to accommo-
place has a cheerful and casual ambi-
date his guests.
ence. From the start, it has attracted a
From lox and bagels to grilled chick-
diverse group of patrons, from native
en,
our culinary tour gave us a delicious
Puerto Ricans to tourists who wander in

RUTH ROVNER
Special to The Jewish News

.