A Consuming Passion

Hand-made chocolate, once a delicacy available only abroad,
is now being crafted at home.

ALLISON KAPLAN SOMMER
Special to The Jewish News

D

o Israelis like chocolate?
Well, let's put it this way.
At the entrance to the sec-
ond annual Chocolate
Festival held in Tel Aviv last month,
the Elite company posted a gigantic
welcome sign composed of pieces of
chocolate attached to a posterboard.
Passersby were free to pull chunks of
the creamy brown stuff from the
board and indulge. Within minutes,
crowds surrounded the sign.
Within less than half an hour, all
the chocolate was gone.
While Israelis may not
consume the same quantity
of chocolate as natives of
France and Switzerland
do, their level of con-
sumption has always
been more than
respectable on an
international scale.
What has changed
recently is the level
of the quality of
chocolate.
Just five years
ago, anyone who
traveled to Europe
‘
1
felt compelled to
\
bring "the good
\
stuff" home to share
among friends and
\
family. But one by one,
the finest brands of
European chocolates, such
as Godiva and Neuhaus,
have made it to Israel and can
be found on the shelves of
department stores and gourmet
shops.
Some are sold in their own outlets
in upscale spots such as the new
Ramat Aviv mall. Despite the fact that
their prices soar far above the local
standbys produced by Elite and Vered
Hagalil, they are succeeding.
But the true local chocolate revolu-

Allison Kaplan Sommer is a writer
for the Jerusalem Post Foreign Service.

tion has been set in motion by ambi-
tious Israelis who, after studying the
art of chocolate-making abroad, have
brought the joys of hand-made choco-
lates to their homeland. Here are the
stories of two of them.
Don't go looking for Max Brenner.
The artistically designed boxes of the
veteran chocolate maker in Israel bear
his signature, conjuring up visions of a

after the army — traveling for a year
Brenner is a hip young man with a
in South America or India, then going
shaved head and an earring, usually
to study law or business. I didn't want
clad in a T-shirt and jeans. Although
to be like everyone else."
he spends much of his time supervis-
After completing his army service,
ing the workers stirring the pots in the
he heard about government-supported
cramped kitchen of the flagship store
courses in various trades. In the mid-
in Ra'anana, his heart is out in the
dle of the long list of electronic and
front of the shop, where the beautiful-
mechanical skills, there was a course in
ly, designed boxes and intricately deco-
pastry-making. This option sounded
rated chocolates are on display.
like the most creative and appealing
Brenner prides himself on his mar-
and, as it soon became clear, he had a
keting innovations: chocolates for spe-
knack for it as well. After working in
cial occasions decorated with "Mazal
the local field for a while, he began to
Tov" or "I'm Sorry" In collaboration
with artist Nir Hod, he has created
look overseas.
In Paris, Brenner, found the "mas-
special boxes with romantic gifts,
ter" he had been waiting to meet —
such as a chocolate together
Michel Chaudun, one of the most
with a ring inscribed with
famous chocolatiers in France.
the word "Forever;" choco-
Chaudun's chocolates are in line with
late with a preserved rose-
the French gourmet philosophy. For
bud; a limited-run gift
the French, quality chocolate is bitter
item called Theo — a
chocolate made with real cacao solids.
small silver can filled
Belgians, by contrast, tend to create
with squares of
larger, sweeter chocolates. They vary
chocolate to be
their fillings, adding fruit or liquid
added to hot milk to
centers, and they prefer milk chocolate
make hot chocolate.
and white chocolate.
The entrance to
Brenner worked for Chaudun for a
the Ra'anana store is
year and a half and became a devout
meticulously deco-
believer in his recipes and technique.
rated: a counter
After this apprenticeship, Brenner
with hunks of dark,
returned to Israel to earn some money.
milk, and white
l chocolate displayed
He was offered a job at the Kapulsky
cafe chain as a pastry consultant. It
as if they were pieces
was at Kapulsky that he met Max
of precious ore just
Brenner's "other half," Max Fichtman.
mined. From this store
With a background in baking,
come the chocolates
Fichtman had made aliyah from
sold in the two Tel Aviv
Denmark. They became good friends
outlets and in their
and Fichtman suggested that they
Jerusalem store, opened on
open a small bakery.
the heels of the prod-
Brenner declined.
uct's tremendous suc-
Chocola te-mak-
"It was working in choco-4
cess.
ing Isra elis are
late that I truly fell in love
Contrary to what one
providi ng compe- with; if I wanted any kin&
might imagine, chocolate has
tition f or makers
of business, it was choco-
not been a lifelong passion of
like Go diva.
late."
Brenner's. He rather stumbled
So they decided to open
into the field. As a boy grow-
their first chocolate store in Ra'anana,
ing up in Rehovot, "I never dreamed
near Max's apartment.
of anything resembling a career in
They created "Max Brenner" to
chocolate. All I knew was that I want-
give the name of the chocolates an
ed to do something different. I didn't
international image. "We learned from
want to follow the same well-worn
market research that Israelis believe
path that all my friends were taking

/

Photo courtesy of Patrice Tanaka & Company Inc.

Swiss chef, swathed in white, who
spends his days stirring pots of choco-
late in some grand European tradition.
But the truth is, Max Brenner is ficti-
tious. Instead, meet Max Fichtman and
Oded Brenner.

2/13
1998

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