La p Esdi a I Best Of Everything face down on the table without asking if you want more coffee, dessert or an after-dinner drink? Does your waitperson say the restaurant only serves iced tea in the summer or will he or she make a little extra effort to provide it off-season? When you ask for more coffee, does the waitperson whose attention you get say, "Sorry, not my table"? When you ask if a particular dish is good, does the waitperson respond, "I don't know, I never eat here"? Do you have to ask more than once for water and still not get it? Does your coffee get cold while you're waiting for the cream or artificial sweetener? Restaurants are difficult businesses. We've been through a period of self-indulgence and excess and, like the people in the Atka Seltzer ads, we now have indigestion. We have a deep longing for quiet, to become insulated from hectic pressures screeching out at us from TV or newspaper headlines, frustrating us as we try to make our budgets cover necessities and on and on. There's a mood for nostalgia, to escape. Future music trends will be more reminiscent of the early '40s. Softer, slower music is right in step with the nostalgia that is a natural reaction to psychological indigestion. We'll seek quiet, low-pressure atmospheres and, if possible, service by the fireplace. Restaurant dining rooms will become more atmospheric. A generation of precooked, prepre- pared, frozen food will give way to high-quality food service operations. No longer will it be enough to plaster the name of a celebrity on the sign out in front or use gimmicky containers that make portions look larger than they really are. The trend will be toward more attractively prepared, fla- vorful food offerings with a wider variety of choice served in a non- offensive atmosphere. If you still want to own a restaurant, good luck. You'll need it. But utill'z-e that common sense you've got and chances for success will be a lot better. It's about the top requisite needed in running a good operation. ❑ 10/31 1997 102 4 cJ