Food

11

explanation refers to the Yiddish
words shule and ende, which means
the "end of synagogue," when
cholent is eaten.
If you've never had cholent, you
don't know what you're missing.
That's not an old maxim but an
opinion. Ask anyone who has ever
lifted the lid of a well-made cholent
and inhaled the luscious aromas
emerging from the steaming pot.
They know what this means.
There are those who don't like
cholent. Why? One answer is that
they've never eaten a well-made
cholent.
There are countless renditions of
cholent that range from simple to
complex. Each has ingredients native
to the areas where they were devel-
oped.
Additionally, most recipes will
have people remembering with sad-
ness and affection, "that's not they
way my mother (grandmother) made
it." No matter. If you can recall what
was in your favorite cholent, you
may be able to fashion one of the
recipes below to your nostalgic pref-
erence.

saute until softened. Add beef and
brown well on both sides. Add
beans, barley and potatoes. Season
well with salt and pepper.
Add bay leaves.
Pour over enough hot water to
just cover the meat only. Bring mix-
ture to a boil and remove from heat.
Cover well and place the pot or
casserole in a 225-degree oven for 12
more hours. Do not stir. When ready
to serve, open the lid quickly and
sprinkle with the chopped parsley.
Replace the lid. Bring entire pot to
the table and lift the lid for everyone
to smell the delicious aromas at
once. Serve in deep plates or bowls.
Makes 8 servings.

Dafina

This is a Sephardi version of cholent.
It includes whole eggs in their shells
and garbanzo beans. Some even add
saffron to the dafina. In addition, a
cheesecloth bag holds a flavorful
concoction of rice with raisins or
dates.

Basic Cholent

If there is such a thing as a basic
cholent, this is it. Although this
recipe calls for flanken or brisket,
any pot roast cut of meat may be
used. In addition, some folks put
slices of kishka over the stew, as well.
Experiment with different dried
beans and spices to make this
cholent your own.

combine the uncooked rice, nutmeg,
ginger, raisins and almonds. Bring
the sides of the cheesecloth up to
form a loose bag (the rice will
expand while cooking). Tie bag with
string to secure. Place rice bag over
the stew with the potatoes around it
to hold in place. Put the whole raw
eggs over the potatoes. Add more
water, leaving about 1" of food
uncovered. Bring mixture to a boil
again. Remove from heat, cover and
place the pot in a 225 degree oven
for the requisite 12 or more hours
until ready to serve. Makes 8 serv-
ings.

Each cholent
has ingredients
native to
the area
where it was
developed.

10/24
1997

96

Vegetarian Whole-
Wheat Hamin

This dish has Egyptian origins. It
contains ferik, young whole wheat
c,
(available at Middle-Eastern specialty
shops). Chick peas and lentils make
this a complete protein.

Unlike the basic cholent, dafina is
sometimes served in courses, the rice
and the eggs together and the meat
mixture as a soup.

Hamin Dulci
(Veal with Fruit)

This recipe is adapted from Suzy
David's dish in The Sephardic Kosher
Kitchen.

In a large, heavy oven-proof pot or
Dutch oven, heat oil over medium
high 'heat. Add garlic and onions and

oven, heat oil over medium-high
heat. Add meat and saute until
browned on all sides. Remove from
heat.
Add the flour and stir until the
meat is well coated. Add the quinces
and prunes and potatoes. Sprinkle
with sugar and parsley. Stir to com-
bine. Add enough water to reach half
way up the meat mixture.
Return to heat and bring to a boil.
Remove from heat, cover well and
place in a 225-degree oven for 12
more hours, until ready to serve.
Makes 6 servings.

In a large oven-proof pot or Dutch
oven, place garbanzo beans, beef,
marrow bones, onions, garlic, salt,
pepper and cinnamon. Top with
potatoes. Add enough water to cover.
Place pot over high heat until mix-
ture comes to a boil.
While meat is cooking, make the
rice mixture.
Place a double layer of cheesecloth
on a flat surface. In a small bowl,

In a large oven-proof pot or Dutch

In a oven-proof large pot or Dutch
oven, heat oil over medium-high
heat. Add onions and garlic and
saute until translucent. Add the
wheat, lentils, chickpeas, salt, pepper,
cinnamon and allspice. Stir until
combined.
Place whole raw eggs in their
shells over the mixture, but do not
press down. Add enough water to
just cover the mixture and the eggs.
Place in a 225-degree oven
overnight.
In the morning, check the water
level. If the mixture seems dry, add
more water or broth. It should be
slightly soupy. Adjust seasonings and
serve. Makes 8 servings.
For variation, add chopped red
peppers, peas, pine nuts or almonds 0
slivers to the mixture and serve with
grated Parmesan cheese. [1]