C ach Friday before sunset, wherever there are observant Jews, an ancient culinary ritual transpires. The making of cholent, the tradi- tional Shabbat casse- role eaten after Saturday-morning ser- vices, boasts an impor- tant culinary standing in Jewish culture. Cholent-type meals have, for thou- sands of years, fed hungry Jews instructed by the fourth.command- ment to "remember the Sabbath day and to keep it holy." Part of keeping the Sabbath holy involves the forbiddance of work. Thus, no actual cooking may be per- formed on Shabbat. Among the 39 activities determined to be work, lighting fires, cooking and baking are strictly prohibited according to Jewish law. Historically, the loophole in these restrictions has been to slow cook all-in-one stews over fires that had been started before the 18 min- utes preceding sundown, which sig- nals the onset of Shabbat. Cholent is a basically a stew. This concoction of meat or poultry, veg- etables, legumes, combined in a pot or covered casserole, is placed in a slow oven or over low heat and cooked for 12 to 20 hours. Individual cholent ingredients vary, reflecting availability and affordability as well as personal taste preferences. The traditional Ashkenazi version, however, includes brisket, potatoes, barley and fava or white beans. Around the world, cholent has sev- eral names and variations. Although the origin of the word cholent is neb- ulous, one common thought is that the medieval word is a variation of the Old French word chault or chauld, meaning "hot," and lent, which translates into "slow." Another Opposite page: Some say that the longer the cholent cooks, the better it tastes. This page, below: Ashkenazi cholent features brisket, while Sephardi cholent has whole eggs.