• _Travel A WISH FOR HEALTH, HAPPINESS AND PROSPERITY IN THE COMING YEAR Back To The Pale Five hundred Jewish Agency leaders explore =bow American dollars are rebuilding Jewish life in the former Soviet Union. INA FRIEDMAN Israel Correspondent nly a century ago, the wooded eastern European city of Minsk, Belarus, was in the heart of the Pale of Settlement, the only place where Jews were allowed to live in czarist Russia. ;- Today, in a land better known for its struggling economy and see-saw rela- tionship with nearby Russia, the most ecent ancestry home for many of today's American Jews is a center of Jewish rebirth — due in no small part to funds raised in Diaspora Jewish communities. \ That became clear recently as, on • their way to Jerusalem for its annual Assembly, the Jewish Agency for Israel had 500 delegates stop in seven republics of the former Soviet Union • check in on their Federation con- tributions. The team that went to Belarus vis- ited a region replete with Jewish sig- • ficance. This is the land where ( Lubavitcher Chasidism, the Bund • and the Labor-Zionist movement were born. Chaim Weizmann, David Ben-Gurion, Golda Meir and Shimon Peres all hailed from here. Its inspired Marc Chagall to p aint his famed works on the theme of the shtetl. And many of these towns — with their dirt roads, small wooden houses, outhouses and wells, freely roaming chickens and goats — still look as they did during the Russian revolution seven decades ago. The group arrived in the capital, • Minsk, on June 22, the anniversary • the Nazi invasion of the USSR Belarus. By the end of that period, about 2.2 million citizens — a quar- ter of the population — had been • murdered. About a third of them, ?some 800,000 people, were Jews. • The countryside is dotted with monuments to the fallen. Minsk itself boasts the only monument in the ,whole of the FSU dedicated, in 7 —kussian and Yiddish, to Jews mur- dered by the Nazis. Jewish war veter- ans, now in their 80s and 90s, proud- ly haul out their Red Army uniforms - ( to display their medals. The most prosperous Soviet repub- lic before the breakup of the USSR, Belarus has since been reduced to dire poverty. The average monthly wage is $50. People on welfare assis- tance or unemployment squeeze by on $10 a month, war veterans and pensioners on about $40. There have also been recent set- backs in democratic rule and the efforts of the Belarus government to form a union with Russia. President Alexander Lukashenko recently dis- persed the democratically elected par- liament and appointed a new one, mostly of his own supporters. Human rights suffered a severe set- back as he led the country back to Soviet-style rule. Today, official statistics put the Jewish population at about 1 percent or 100,000 people. But no one really knows how many Jews are living there. Jewish Agency (JAFI) statistics show that in the past seven years, 56,473 Jews emigrated to Israel from Belarus, which due to the poor economy has the highest rate of aliyah in the FSU. With American Jewish help, Jews are still leaving Russia, but also rebuilding communities. But more Jews seem to emerge from the "closet" every day. What had been a stress on getting them out as quickly as possible has turned into a "rescue mission" of providing for the elderly, reviving Jewish culture and preparing younger people for life in Israel. Both JAFI and the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee (JDC) are engaged in outreach pro- grams to locate and serve the coun- try's Jews. The lengths to which they go seem remarkable. "We send our people to sit in Jewish cemeteries, wait for someone to visit a grave, and then ask about the other Jews in the town or vil- lage," explains Sarah Bogen, the JDC Coordinator for Belarus in Jerusalem. 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