A Marriage In Deep Water Kashering the kitchen almost tore us apart. JULIE EDGAR SENIOR WRITER A tiny spatula flew across the room, jettisoned from the dishrack when David slammed down his fist in a rage. "I can't take it anymore!" he yelled, abruptly turning off the spigots of the kitchen sink and stomping out the door. I picked up the spatula and brought it to the sink. "Do I have to toivel this again?" I asked my- self as the house vibrated from the slamming door. This was the beginning of married life, and our first real choice as husband and wife: A happy home or a kosher home? At the mikvah toveling trough, we dutifully dunked every new piece of silverware, every pot and pan, every bowl and plate, every measuring spoon and cup, every appliance attachment, every plat- ter, every whisk and every spat- ula. We took turns — one toveled, the other washed. It took hour af- ter weary hour. (According to Ortho- dox specifications, all new and some old dish- es and utensils require dunking in the mikvah to officially transfer ownership.) My patience wore thin. Our kitchen was stacked with cartons stuffed with grimy dishes. Balled-up news- paper littered the floor. Our sink was in perpetual use, making it impossible even to fill the teapot for boiling water. The countertop seemed to bow under the weight of drying dishes, as did the din- ing room table. And, just when we thought we'd toveled everything, we un- covered another cup or received another platter from a distant relative that needed dunking. Would it never end? Hours at the mikvah and the sink lay before us. And after get- ting a glimpse of the bottom of the mikvah tub, both of us car- ried a memory that couldn't be washed away. Even if we Ivory- soaped it, could we be sure we killed the organisms that lived in that tub? The pleasantness of shared la- bor turned to paranoia. As I loaded another box into the sink, I wondered: Did he really tovel this bowl or did he just say he did? We bought paper plates and plastic silverware, so we could avoid wrecking that which had taken us so many hours. That didn't prevent a fallout. Living as we had for months — weaving through gift boxes stacked everywhere and chasing those hateful styrofoam packing worms with a broom — I couldn't take the disorder any longer. It was one thing to boil our old plates and silverware and coun- tertops and sink, scrub an en- crusted old oven and reorganize shelves; it was another to tovel everything while we tried to a) settle into married life and b) not break anything. I was agitated. So there we were in the kitchen, he at the sink casually washing, me breaking down box- es and wiping down shelves. He was moving too slowly, it seemed to me. If he only washed faster, we could do two or three loads of dishes, rather than one. I sug- gested he pick up the pace. I knew then what eyes look like when they shoot daggers. That's when he staged a strike, storming out of the house while graters, can openers, carrot peelers, zesters and forks, knives and spoons sat in a twisted, gleaming pile in the sink (which, it occurred to me, wasn't clean enough). He returned an hour later, still mad. The next day, in a kind of toveling-in- duced stupor, he admitted that he had been washing too slowly. A week later, toveling was a faded memory, but neither of us could eat without being stricken by a sense that we were doing something wrong. And one night, David woke up yelling: "Yadda, yadda, yadda," or "Yah, yah, yah" or "Yo, yo, yo." In the morning he described a night twisted by nightmares of kashrut. His subconscious had become a receptacle for the flot- sam of two straight days' worth of reading on kosher laws and two weeks' worth of toveling. The nightmares have passed, thankfully. But now both of us have become insufferable. He has assumed an annoying piety, making it known whenever pos- sible that his standard of kosher is rising higher by the minute. I have become a bore, rattling on about eating whenever I get the chance. In the end, we don't regret our decision to go kosher. We know we'll grow into it. We feel good about it. It's a big mitzvah. It's not as hard as we thought it would be. And happily, both of us are getting thinner. ❑ We 're awa sh in toive ling. Left: From Sango Stoneware, four settings of "Spring Jewel" sells for $39.98 at Wells Freight & Cargo. Cambridge Flatware's "Strata" collection goes for $49.97 for service for eight. Affordably Stocked Kitchens You, too can have dishes that match, despite a low salary. LYNNE MEREDITH COHN STAFF WRITER W hen you graduate from college, it's time to leave those plastic plates and mis- matched silverware behind. The real world necessitates a real kitchen, in which you feel com- fortable cooking for guests. But how do you stock your kitchen on a low salary? Know that you can build a solid kitchen for under $300 — even if you keep kosher. You just have to know where to shop. Stores like Meijer, Target and Amazing Savings are good places to start. At Amazing Sav- ings, a national chain owned and operated mostly by Ortho- dox Jews, you can find four- place-setting sets of Mikasa and other big-name dishes for around $40. Packaged sets of stainless flatware cost any- where from $8.99 to 24.99 for four place settings, and they also sell serving pieces, utensils and low-cost crystal. "Everything we have is a closeout," says Sandy Singal, Amazing Savings' general man- age r. "We have contacts with the manufacturers, and through brokers and liquidators. Our [items] are all name brand, usu- ally not defective, not seconds usually the company is either changing a pattern or just changing the packaging." Bargain-basement megas- tores like Target and Meijer have big kitchen departments, with dish sets, as well as those you can buy in individilql pieces, and sturdy, stainless steel serv- ing utensils. Target also sells beautiful ce- ramic serving platters for around $15. At Meijer, you'll find boxed sets of drinking glasses and well-made pots and pans. This is the place to go to buy a large soup pot. But first, recognize that you don't need everything right away. Walter Goodman, co-own- er of Wells Freight & Cargo in Birmingham, suggests starting with four place settings of dish- es and silverware, a seven-piece set of pots and pans (including at least one good frying pan, two sizes of sauce pans and a small dutch oven), bakeware that is also microwaveable and a good tea kettle. Kathie Pietrosld, manager of Kitchen Glamor in West Bloom- field, advises buying a "basic five-, six- or seven-piece cook- ware set, because the sets give you a better value for your mon- ey. You can always add more pieces. Here, the man.u.factur- er - discount the sets over the open stock price, and we put them on sale on top of that." Kitchen Glamor sells a basic set by Chantal for $199.99; the pots are enameled and can be used in the oven, on the stove and as serving pieces. Wells Freight & Cargo sells dependable heat- and break-re- sistant items, including an ex- tensive line of decorative glass dishes by J.G. Durant that re- ally don't break (Goodman throws an occasional dish on the floor just to demonstrate).