John Francis Hamtramck was
the first American commander
of Fort Detroit. Rising from the
ranks to become Gen. Anthony
Wayne's best strategist in the
post-Revolutionary wars, the
German-French Canadian
colonel became the namesake of
both the city and township of
Hamtramck.
In 1914, Polish laborers were
attracted in large numbers
to the newly established
Dodge Brothers auto plant,
and the town began to blos-
som. Between 1910 and n
1920, Hamtramck's popu-
lation increased from 3,589
to 46,615; in 1922, it was of-
ficially incorporated as a
city.
A few years ago, Ham-
tramck was the up-and-
coming hangout of choice.
Rent was cheap (residential
and business), flats were of-
ten charming and safe, and
nightlife abounded. But
with the explosive rebirth of
Royal Oak and Pontiac, the
flavors of Hamtramck have
been all but forgotten.
Well, we're here to re-
mind you. When the crowds
flocked elsewhere, the vari-
ety did dwindle a bit; but
Hamtramck still has cheap
rent, is still mostly safe, and
the city harbors more than
a few hidden gems.
If you're heading out from
the suburbs, take 1-75 south
and get off at the Caniff exit;
turn left on Caniff. It's only
a couple of blocks to the in-
tersection at Jos. Campau.
Explore the area from there.
In 1990, June Hankins opened
Curly's Boutique and Gallery
(named for a dearly departed fe-
line friend), where she did cloth-
ing alterations and design. After
a brief relocation to Royal Oak,
last year Hankins and her hus-
band Nate Buker bought the
building in which the present
Curly's resides.
Still providing expert alter-
ations, the Curly's of today
(10022 Jos. Campau, (313) 871-
0368) also has an eclectic mix of
art exhibits, film screenings, jew-
elry, clothes and in the back,
Icon Records — CDs, posters
and 45s, featuring an array of
Michigan music, surf, rockabilly,
punk, ska, indie and garage rock.
"We're here, really, to get peo-
ple excited about Hamtramck,"
says Buker.
Next door to Curly's, and also
owned by Hankin and Buker, is
Urban Break (10020 Jos. Cam-
pau, (313) 872-1210), a sunny
cafe with high ceilings, light
lunch fare, made-on-the-premis-
es baked goods and the occasional
art exhibit: - • -
Down the street is The Bag

Lady Beads (2952 Holbrook,
(313) 871-0250), owned by Han-
kins' sister Carla. Specializing in
hand-made ceramic products
jewelry and wonderful button's
included — Hankins has an eye
for a variety of one-of-a-kind
knickknacks: sterling silver, glass
vases and beads, beads, beads.
Check out, too, Relics (10027-
Jos. Campau, (313) 874-0500), for

an and vegan dishes, all accom-
panied by a chunk of Zingerman's
bread. Cafe Zuppa is busiest at
lunchtime, so stop in early for the
Widest choice.
If you're looking for a real taste
of Hamtramck, try Under the
Eagle (9000 Jos. Campau, (313)
875-5905), where the house spe-
cialties are stuffed cabbage and
sauerkraut, with salad and

a milky drink with rose hips and
bits of mango. Although Taj Ma-
hal does not have a liquor license,
guests are more than welcome to
bring their own.
Next stop, Al Rasheed (9315
Jos. Campau, (313) 874-2957) —
very affordable Middle Eastern
fare. And of course, almost every
other storefront is a bakery: The
New Martha Washington

CO

Above: Beads and beads and
beads at The Bag Lady Beads.

Right: June Hankins was among
the first non-Polish store owners
to discover Hamtramck: She
opened the first Curly's Boutique
and Gallery in 1990.

antiques, collectibles, furniture
and accessories. And for every-
thing Polish and more, the Pol-
ish Art Center (9539 Jos.
Campau, (313) 874-2242) is un-
surpassed: imports, dolls, cos-
tumes, CDs, books, wooden
boxes, candy, jams and puddings.
For a hearty, cheap lunch ($5
or less), stop in at Cafe Zuppa
(2917 Trowbridge (313) 871-
9929). Proprietor Mary Kali-
nowski changes the menu daily,
so everything is fresh. Hot and
cold soups — gazpacho with but-
termilk and cucumber, cold beet
soup, vindaloo corn chowder with
curry, Brazilian black bean,
North African split pea with rice
or curried red lentil porridge, to
name a few.
Also -availablearethree kinds
of chili, hearty salads, vegetari-

mashed potatoes, as well as the
requisite pierogi, or the Polish
Village Cafe (2990 Yemans,
(313) 874-5726), "where the pres-
ident goes for Polish food."
Looking for something a little
less meaty? (Although the fol-
lowing do have plenty for carni-
vores.) Tj Mahal (2314 Caniff,
(313) 365 4444) serves affordable
Bangladeshi and Indian cuisine
with a meat samosa and mulli-
gatawny soup which are incom-
parable, as is the mango lasse —

Bakery (10335 Jos. Campau,
(313) 872-1988) and the New
Deluxe Polish Bakery (11920
Conant, (313) 892-8165) are just
a few good ones.
Hamtramck, of course, is
known for its bars: old and new
alike. The Motor Lounge (3515
Caniff, at Klinger, (313) 369-
0080), where the Falcon Club
used to be, is one of the city's most
recent incarnations .
Owner Dan Sordyl managed
both St. Andrew's and Industry

before venturing out on his own,
and he's come up with a hard-
edged cocktail lounge with bits of
homey comfort thrown in. With
two separate stages, Motor has
live music almost every night —
from blues to funk to acid jazz
and swing. Definitely worth a
trip.
Roadrunner's Raft (2363 Ye-
mans, at Brombach, (313) 873-
RAFT), billing itself as "...
music of the people, by
the people and for the
people ...," offers folk and
acoustic.
A Hamtramck legend,
Uncle Jessie White can
still be found hammering
out the blues at his piano
every Saturday night at
the Attic Bar (11667 Jos.
Campau, (313) 365-4194).
Drop in any other night,
too; there's a great well-
rounded jukebox, and
usually something going
on.
And don't forget the old
favorites: Paycheck's
Lounge (2932 Caniff,
(313) 874-0909) is a great
place for pool and for
years has been the place
to see the coolest bands;
the best Bloody Mary in
town is made by none
other than Lili herself, at
Lili's 21 (2930 Jacob,
(313) 875-6555). For some
real grit, and another ful-
ly loaded jukebox, try the
Norwalk Bar (9607 Co-
nant, (313) 872-8923).
Twice a year, you can
ride the Hamtramck
Fun Train, stopping at
12 locations for $5, including
bars, restaurants and more ((313)
368-8192).
Coming up is the Aug. 16-17
Hamtramck Art Festival, two
days of fun, food, art, live enter-
tainment and children's activi-
ties (Zussman Park, in front of
Hamtramck City Hall, (313) 365-
2846).
And, saving the best for last,
if you've never seen Hamtram-
ck Disneyland, you're in for a
real treat. Dmytro Szylak, a re-
tired GM machine operator born
in the Ukraine, has spent the last
six years building a 'Tyree Guy-
ton Heidelberg-esque massive
theme park of whirligigs,
carousel horses (45 of them,
laughs Szylak) and 65 soldiers,
right in his back yard.
Last year, he says, 800 people c r n s
visited, and last week, in came a
busload of senior citizens. Get the _
view from the back alley (12087
Klinger); if you're lucky, Szylak
will invite you in for a tour.
Bottom line: if you can't find •
something fun to do in Ham-
tramck, you're just not looking
hard enough. ❑

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