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FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE DRUNK. f the millions of Israelis the opening through which raw and tourists from abroad materials were delivered to the who celebrate Yom Ha'atz- workers underground. maut, few have heard of The washing machine, a six- the Ayalon Institute, much less foot-long, cast-iron boiler at the been to it. other end of the shed, also pivots Yet Ayalon, now a museum, is without effort, revealing the lad- one of the most important sym- der on which the munitions work- bols of the heroic War for Inde- ers descended to or climbed up pendence which the Jews of the from the factory. yishuv (Palestine) waged — first, This is their story, as our guide against the British occupying related it to us. force and, later, after indepen- Long before the U.N. resolu- dence, against the invading tion of Nov. 29, 1947, calling for armies of five Arab nations. the creation of an independent Atop Kibbutzim Hill, just Jewish state, the high command north of the Rehovot railroad sta- of the Haganah had realized that tion, a faint breeze stirs the laun- an armed struggle would in- dered shirts, sheets and towels, evitably ensue and that arms hanging on a would be need- clothes line ed to conduct it which has been successfully. there for half a ;-= There was a century. The 1-) decision to use line is connect- r!,), the British ed to a 100-foot- Sten gun as the long shed most effective which contains weapon. A a washing ma- sample was chine at one f2 smuggled into end and a bak- (i) the country ery oven at the and, after other. The many experi- shed, in turn, is ments, the gun part of a com- was successful- rationing in besieged Jerusalem plex of build- Water ly reproduced, after the cutting of the pipeline in 1948. ings which, and in large until the end of quantities — the war, comprised the kibbutz as many as 4,500 —by Ta'as, the known as Ayalon. The laundry Haganah's military industry, and the oven stand idle; and the based in Tel Aviv. buildings of the kibbutz are now But there was no ammunition empty, save for the museum of- available; the manufacture of the fice and afield research center of 9 mm. Stan bullet was a top pri- the Society for the Protection of ority. As early as 1938, Haganah Nature, the museum's sponsor. had managed to buy and bring But during the years of rebel- into Palestine from Poland sec- lion against the British and of ond-hand, bullet-making ma- war against the Arab countries, chines. Skilled Ta'as workers the Ayalon kibbutzniks, in the repaired the equipment and mas- midst of battle, managed peace- tered the techniques of bullet pro- fully to cultivate their apple or- duction. But the long and chards, milk their cows and go complicated process of manufac- about the hundred other tasks of ture required continuity and a farm life. Little did they realize, space large enough to hold the nor did the British in the sur- machinery and materials — not rounding army garrisons, that 30 to mention the dozens of workers feet beneath the washing ma- who would be needed. chine and the oven an under- It was decided that an under- ground munitions factory was at ground factory should be set up work, turning out the millions of and that an actual, working kib- bullets without which the war butz should be established on top would have been lost. of it, as a kind of Potemkin Vil- Trained guides recount the lage that concealed reality — but dramatic saga, show a film about a village that was not just a fa- the factory and actually escort cade but one that was truly func- museum visitors down the 30-foot tioned, as well. ladder which leads to the scene Kibbutzim Hill was chosen as of the secret operation. The door the site of the kibbutz: First, be- of the 10-ton oven, which once cause there were other kibbutz- turned out hundreds of loaves of im on the hill, so that the bread for the kibbutz and neigh- establishment of a new one would boring Rehovot, swings easily and quietly to one side, revealing UNDERGROUND page 114