PLEASURES Beyond the usual blockbusters await dozens of cool diversions, vm celebrity ianormtc tS all 'Cali ontid beach life to remote island-hopping. SUSAN, R. POUACK Ez7E; TERRIFIC TORONTO Cl) LU Cn LU C.) w LU S38 D ipping their toes in the fountain at City Hall when no one is i look- ing. Strolling hand-in-hand down Queen Street West, ogling locals with multiple- pierced body parts and out- Susan R. Pollack is a freelance writer based in Huntington Woods. landishly-colored hair. Sipping expensive wines, sharing secrets and rekindling their romance at a cozy little bistro named Peter Pan. Rubbing elbows the next morning with power-breakfast- ing movie stars in the classy Stu- dio Cafe of the Four Seasons Hotel, a gallery-like setting that ranks as the city's top celebrity- watching spot. For Bruce and Cindy Hillen- berg of Farmington Hills, Toron- to evokes all these memories and more. The couple never tire of traipsing across the border to Canada's largest city for a week- end escape from their hectic dai- ly routines as a.psychologist, office manager and parents of two. Toronto, Hilleriberg says, "is where we go to remember that we're married. It's romantic, it's cosmopolitan, it's Europe on a smaller budget." And, best of all, it's just a four- hour trip by car or train from De- troit and Windsor. The warm months are an es- pecially good time to chill out in Toronto, where all kinds of cool pleasures, literally and trendily- speaking, await visitors — whether they're traveling in pairs, with families or alone. Toronto's summertime sizzles with dozens of special events cel- ebrating everything from kids (May 26-June 1), international arts (May 29-June 8) and jazz (June 20-9) to the Caribbean- flavored Caribana (July 21-Aug. 4) and Northern Encounters, the city's first festival showcasing Arctic music, visual arts, film, sci- ence and cuisine (June 1-30). On six nights between June 14 and July 5, an international fire- works competition, set to music, will light up the sky over Lake Ontario. And a worldly crowd of