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A Perfect Cookbook
For Mother's Day

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he has been hailed as "a
cross between Julia Child
and Woody Allen" and "an
unholy alliance between
Julia Child and Henry Miller."
Now, just in time for Mother's
Day, Myra Chanin, culinary wiz-
ard and humorist, salutes her
mother, the late Sylvia "Tsuni"
Daskell, in an uproariously fun-
ny, but practical book, Mother
Wonderful's Profusely Illustrat-
ed Guide to the Proper Prepara-
tion of Chicken Soup (Dell, 1997,
$9.95).

PURE

SUMMER ELS

CHOCOLATE CHIPS

• SMALL • MEDIUM • LARGE

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16, 1997.

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124

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In a recent interview, Ms.
Chanin insists that the book was
beshert (meant to be). The inspi-
ration? From the longtime ob-
servance of the culinary intrigues
of her mother, finally channeled
into a national television show
on the Jewish holidays. The book
is an entertaining, step-by-step
guide to one of the most mother-
ly tasks imaginable — making
chicken soup.
Included in the book are Mrs.
Daskell's delicious entrees and
tempting side dishes prepared
from tasteless, leftover boiled
soup chicken.
Note that each step is precise-
ly explained, complete with Ms.
Chanin's comments. Recipes are
clearly divided into sections: in-
gredient list, preparation and
cooking, and serving. Below is a
sampling yoil can make in your
own kitchen.

TSUNI'S KNAIDLACH OR
MATZAH BALLS FOR
CHICKEN SOUP

2 tablespoons rendered chicken
fat (schmaltz) or peanut oil
2 large eggs, slightly beaten
1/2 cup matzah meal
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons club soda or
seltzer (my mother's secret
ingredient!)

Mix the fat and eggs together

with a wire whisk in a bowl. Add
the matzah meal and salt slow-
ly, blending in well with the wire
whisk. Add the club soda, and
whisk well again. Cover the bowl,
and place in the refrigerator for
at least 30 minutes. An hour is
even better.
Preparation: Bring 2 quarts of
salted water to a brisk boil on high
heat. Lower the heat, and wait un-
til the water is bubbling just
slightly. Divide the batter into 12
equal parts, and roll them into
balls. Drop the balls into the wa-
ter. Cover the pot,
and let it simmer for
about 40 minutes.
Don't look in the pot
every 5 minutes. The
matzah balls will not
fly away. Look in the
pot after 40 minutes.
If the matzah balls
have risen to the sur-
face, they are done. If
they haven't, throw
them out and try
again, unless you like
dumplings that have
the texture and con-
sistency of cannon-
balls. Remove the
cooked matzah balls,
and add them to
soup. Reheat to serve.
Serving. Two matzah balls will
more than suffice per serving of
soup. They also can be used as
vegetarian dumplings added to
brisket gravy or tomato sauce.

TSUNI'S REBAKED
BOILED CHICKEN

Boiled chicken from soup
salt and pepper
garlic powder
paprika
olive oil

Preparation: Preheat oven to
450. Place the drained boiled
chicken in a baking pan, skin side
up. Sprinkle with salt, pepper,
garlic powder and paprika. Bake
on the top shelf of the oven for 8
minutes, or until it browns slight-
ly. Then sprinkle with olive oil,
and bake for 2 more minutes, or
until the chicken can pass for
roasted chicken. Serves 4 to 6.
Variation: A variation of this
is to cut 2 pounds of unpeeled red
bliss potatoes, 1 bunch of un-
peeled carrots, and 2 peeled
onions into quarters. Place them
in a baking pan, sprinkle them
with 2 tablespoons olive oil, salt,
and fresh snipped rosemary, and
bake them at 450 for 20 minutes.
Then add the chicken, and pro-
ceed as above.

BOILED CHICKEN page 126