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March 14, 1997 - Image 90

Resource type:
Text
Publication:
The Detroit Jewish News, 1997-03-14

Disclaimer: Computer generated plain text may have errors. Read more about this.

EXTENSIVE WINE LIST • LUNCH & DINNER

There Is No Fiction With
This Flavor Of The Keys

T

KITCHEN OPEN UNTIL MIDNIGHT FRI & SAT
LUNCH MON - FRI
DINNER TUES - SAT

Seating is for about 100, plus Swiss cheese on Cuban bread,
here has been L.J. Loophole
at the former Sheraton a raw bar with raw oysters, peel- etc. ... The Cuban bread, which
Southfield, Jake of Jake's on and-eat shrimp, gator gua- is much like the French
the Lake, Louie Linguini in camole, voodoo pickled eggs with baguette, is made by Cynthia.
A huge mural of the Atlantic
the Radisson Plaza, P.J. Clarke volcano mayo, etc. ... Even Cyn-
in Birmingham, and so many thia's chocolate chip cookies with Ocean is painted on a wall, and
more who lent their fictitious Macadamia nuts ... The raw bar tall windows face out into the
names to dining establishments. has a happy hour Monday shopping center's parking area.
Captain Tony likes children ...
Of the above, only Louie Lin- through Friday, 3 p.m. to
6 p.m., with conch frit-
guini remains.
he's had more than his
share ... So having a kid-
Now comes Captain Tony ... ters, Bermuda Triangle
dy menu would be most
Except that he is no imaginary rings, Kingston wings,
expected ... It's not just
character but the real namesake smoked bluefish and
a sector of the menu but
of Captain Tony's Key West Bar peel-and-eat shrimp,
a separate placemat list-
& Grill, owned by Rick Griswold $3.50.
One wall is com-
ing items from which
and Hall Koss in the Northwood
youngsters can choose ...
Shopping Center at 13 Mile and pletely filled with pic-
tures of Captain Tony, DANNY RASKIN
Woodward.
chicken tenders, pep-
LOC AL
peroni and cheese pizza,
Eighty-year-old Captain Tony while other decor looks
COLUM NIST
Tarrocino, former Key West are attempts at giving
hamburger, spaghetti,
hot dogs, french fries.
mayor and bar owner, is a leg- the place a Key West
Greg has fresh fish flown in
endary figure in that sector of appearance ... The floor is inter-
esting, looking like footprints in from Key West National Fish-
Florida.
eries three times a week.
The Royal Oak Captain the sand.
And there is a bocci ball court
Best sellers are the grouper
Tony's opened in December on
the former site of Sears Hard- where people can sit on one side, baked in parchment with island
ware, and was originally slated have lunch or dinner, and watch spices and served with Key lime
honey mustard sauce; and eight-
to have a chef from Key West, the game being played.
A captain's table, with Cap- ounce Mahi filet pan seared and
but wisely chose someone local-
ly who would know the wants of tain Tony's image on one of the served with tropical remoulade.
chairs, gives the appearance of
this locale.
His voodoo ribs go over very
Greg Campbell, who opened having him join the seating for big, island spiced baby backs
chargrilled and basted.
the Bloomfield Hunt Club and eight.
Of course the nautical look is
The menu has 12 appetizers,
was there 10 years, plus five
years at the Bijou on Southfield there ... And bands play on a a minimum of 10 entrees, four
Road, came on board a month be- stage surrounded by seafaring soups, with one of them having
fore Captain Tony's opening and ropes Thursday, Friday and Sat- four variations, five salads, nine
Caribbean sandwiches and those
has proven to be a keen choice, urday.
Want a cigar? ... Captain luscious desserts made by Cyn-
preparing the new world Florida
Caribbean cuisine with sound Tony's has Cubans for you ... The thia with her magic touch.
Like her coconut rice pudding
adeptness for which he is noted. chocolate kind, that is.
Also, it is the only place with golden raisins inside a tulle
This is no ordinary restaurant
... not.with Greg making items around that has Cuban sand- cup, with strawberry sauce, ba-
like a 12-ounce strip sirloin mar- wiches ... House smoked turkey nana spice cake served with
inated in olive oil, garlic, cumin with leaf lettuce, tomato and flambed bananas ... Leave of the
and fresh pepper, then flame sofrito sauce pressed on Cuban flaming and ask instead for a
bread; fresh vegetables and mango or strawberry sauce and
grilled; or the grilled
10-ounce filet served
with Spanish sherry
and chorizo demi-
glaze; or a corkscrew
pasta tossed with fresh
seasonal vegetables
and chimichurri pesto;
or an oven-roasted cit-
rus glazed chicken
breast finished with a
sweet smoky chipolte
sauce.
And the presence,
too, of fine pastry chef
Cynthia Wybranows-
ki, formerly at Andi-
amo's in Warren, who
came here after a rep-
utation garnered living
and working 11 years
in Italy and France ...
and taking courses
at the famous school
for professional pastry
chefs, Ecole LeNotre,
Captain Tony with Rick Griswold.
outside of Paris.

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