• • • bugs, emanated from a sewer system in the alley shared by Mr. Cohen's butch- er shop. He said he has battled the con- dition with extensive pest control measures. Water bugs and cockroaches were found in an open storm sewer, said Paul Munoz, owner of Exclusive Pest Ser- vices, an Oak Park firm which was con- tracted by the bakery. "Basically, the problem is with all of the buildings in the strip mall," he said, adding that rodents also made their way into the attached buildings. At the nonkosher Cattleman's Mar- ket on Coolidge in Oak Park, labeling problems have headed the list of cita- tions recently. In the latest report filed by health inspectors in June 1996, im- properly labeled smoked fish was con- fiscated and store packaged items lacked basic label re- quirements. Items offered past expiration have also made the list of violations observed in past in- spections. In January 1995, Cattleman employees were told to throw out meat because it was kept past its expiration date after a customer com- plained of an "off odor" on a piece of strip steak. 'We have a lot of problems with our meat," the meat manager conceded. Cleanliness has also bedev- iled Cattleman's. In the latest report filed in June 1996, inspectors found an accumulation of blood on the floor of the fish and meat cooler and a buildup of A worker in a dirty apron glides his hand through the dough at Zeman's in Oak Park. meat residue on the wrap machine. In August 1995, inspectors forced Cattle- man's to dump 36 pounds of rice because of mouse droppings. Lena Russell, acting manager of the grocery store and butcher shop in Oak Park, said the store does its best to stay on top of cleanli- ness and pest control issues. 'We've got an exterminator that comes in once a week or twice a month," she said, adding that the frequency depends on the season. 'We had [some mice in the store] during the summer. You know those things run around. But we took care of it then." Products kept on the shelves past the expiration date have not been an issue in the past year, she said. ❑ State Kosher Law Vulnerable Officials are reluctant to enforce "religious" law, a law that may be unconstitutional. DAVID ZEMAN SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS /-' S even years ago, state health in- spectors ordered a butcher named Michael Cohen to stop advertising his shop as kosher. The reason, he was told, was that he had violated a rab- binical edict to remain closed on the Sab- bath. Mr. Cohen's inspection from the Met- ropolitan Kashruth Council was termi- nated and the Council of Orthodox Rabbis refused his request for certification. But Mr. Cohen continued to advertise his meat as kosher. That Mr. Cohen essentially told the state to stick it, and got away with it, speaks volumes about the state's timid- ity in enforcing its own kosher laws. The episode also illustrates the discom- fort felt by state officials in monitoring Michigan's kosher food industry, a business that remains inherently reli- gious. "We are not professed experts on Jew- ish customs or laws," conceded Patrick Mercer, a supervisor in the food division of the state Depot intent of Agriculture. "We presume [the rabbinical groups] know what they are doing ... It's very dif- ficult for us." On the books for nearly 70 years, Michigan's kosher laws are meant to prevent consumer fraud. They make it a crime to knowingly sell food as kosher when the food — or the store selling the food — has not been approved by a prop- er Orthodox rabbinical group. But the state is reluctant to step into kosher disputes. Not only do officials feel uneasy wading into the ancient rituals of Jewish dietary observance, but the law itself remains vulnerable to court chal- lenge. In recent years, laws similar to Michi- gan's have been struck down in New Jer- sey and in Baltimore for violating the separation of church and state doctrine of the United States Constitution. Mean- while, a butcher in Commack, N.Y., is contesting the New York law on consti- tutional grounds. While the rulings are notbinding on Michigan courts, they suggest the Michi- gan law may also be susceptible to a court challenge. At the heart of each case is a central question: How far may a state go in mon- itoring the religious standards of kosher law? Supporters of kosher legislation say the laws do not involve the State in reli- gious matters; they simply are a way for the state to enforce truth in advertising. "People pay premium prices for kosher dox kosher doctrine. "By singling out the rules of one reli- gious sect and saying, 'This is what we as a secular government will enforce,' this lends the state authority over a religious practice," said Ronald Kevin Chen, a Rut- gers Law School professor who led the drive to have the Baltimore law over- turned. Dr. Chen noted that even in the Or- thodox Jewish community, there are dis- putes over some provisions of kashrut, making it inevitable that the government will have to resolve at least some religious law. To these critics, the Jewish community alone should en- force kosher law, with no help from the state. In Professor Chen's view, the Michigan kosher law is singularly ripe for a court chal- lenge. `This law is actually worse than the other laws because you have the state determin- ing who is a recognized reli- gious authority," he said. "The state can no more recognize The Vaad's certification of Cohen and Son butcher shop was never one rabbinical group over an- other than it can recognize removed, Nile Cohen said. who is to be the pope." food, and they want to be assured it is Mr. Mercer, of the agriculture depart- as it's represented," said attorney Dennis ment, concedes there is no set formula for Rapps of the National Jewish Commis- determining when a particular certifica- sion on Law and Public Affairs, a group tion group has become "recognized" in the that supports kosher legislation. community. "When you're not getting what you pay Instead, the state has adopted an I- for, that's consumer fraud," Mr. Rapps know-one-when-I-see-one approach, tin- said. der which both the Council of Orthodox Supporters note, for example, that state Rabbis- (Vaad Harabonim) and the Met- officials are not required to decide which ropolitan Kashruth Council apparently foods are kosher. Rather, the state sim- qualify. ply enforces the rulings of "recognized" Mr. Mercer noted that nobody has chal- Orthodox certification groups. lenged the credentials of either group. But critics counter that these laws, by But their "recognized" status did not their very nature, entangle the state in impress Michael Cohen. religious doctrine — in this case, Ortho- In 1990, when the state told Mr. Cohen he could no longer advertise his meat as • kosher, he threatened to sue, saying the state's order violated his religious free- dom as a Conservative Jew. The state blinked. A state agriculture spokesman said the department did not have the resources to defend the kosher law in court. Besides, the spokesman said, the state considered the dispute "a religious matter." In addition, Mr. Cohen's shop, Cohen's Kosher Meats, closed last March. As a result, the constitutionality of Michigan's kosher law has never been tested in court. So how does a state draft a kosher law that will withstand a court challenge? Courts in other states suggest a solu- tion. They say states should not decide whose kosher standards a business must follow. The state should not, for instance, require that only Orthodox standards be observed, or that a particular certification group hold sway. Instead, these courts say, states can avoid a lawsuit by requiring stores to sim- ply disclose on what basis their food is la- beled kosher. For example, if the Vaad has approved the store's products, the store may trumpet that endorsement. If the kosher designation comes from a less- er-known authority, the store must dis- close that as well. The state's only role would be to make sure the product has been endorsed by the rabbi or group of rabbis it claims to be endorsed by. This approach would be sim- ilar to laws which bar the promotion of products as being approved by a specific consumer magazine when they have not been so approved. Stores that falsely advertise can be prosecuted for consumer fraud without the state becoming involved in questions of Jewish law and religious authority. And in the end, it is the customers who will decide if a product meets their own standard of kashrut. ❑