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Warn S tt //rwreo N 11 1447-9090 Dancing In Dessau Invokes Many Memories GABRIEL LEVENSON SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH NEWS A Dessau's Kurt Weill Mu- from all over the country. seum, Lotte Lenya sings sessions at the center TI rough again the bittersweet outreach programs in or through lyrics of "Mack the Knife" universities, they can schools and — the song which made her the in one-day workshops or participate toast of Germany 70 years ago. seminars on the entire weeklong process of It is the theme piece of her hus- the segregation, persecution and band's sublime Three Penny genocide of European Jewry. Opera; and we, listening rever- For the thousands of Germans ently to the scratchy sounds who have viewed the "Rogues which emanate from the trea- Gallery" portraits of the sured 78 rpm disc spinning on a 15 on one wall of the infamous hand-cranked Victrola, are ference room, have read main con- their bi- moved to worshipful dance. ographies and have examined the We, a group of six American stark documentation of their Jewish journalists, are in Dessau labors, the conference center of — one of the first stops in our a profound and 300-mile journey from Berlin to lesson in the country's lasting "thousand- Frankfurt — to pay tribute to the year" history which endured for city's two most famous native the 12 years between 1933 and sons — Kurt Weill himself, per- 1945. haps the great- est composer of popular music in our time, and Moses Mendel- sohn, two cen- turies earlier, the father of Jewish Enlight- enment. In the course of three days, we'll have visit- ed a half-dozen cities rich in Jewish history and, in some in- stances, vibrant with a restored Jewish presence. The expedi- tion begins early Visiting Israelis to ur a Jewish cemetery in Germany. in the morning , RNS/REU TERS TOUR ISRAEL FROM $549. 8 DAYS & 7 NIGHTS at the elegant villa on the shore of Berlin's Lake Wannsee — to which Reinhard Tristan Heydrich, chief of the Reich Security Head Office, had invited 14 high-ranking civil ser- vants and SS officers for an im- portant conference; its purpose, to plan the specific organization and implementation of "The Fi- nal Solution." We know exactly what took place on that cold January day in 1942, when Heydrich and his col- leagues dined and smoked and chatted cozily in front of the huge stone fireplaces at the villa — and got down to the serious business of mass murder. We know be- cause Adolph Eichmann kept the minutes of the conference, found after the war in the files of the German Foreign Office. In 1992, on the 50th anniver- sary of the Conference and two years after the reunification of Germany, the historic Wannsee villa was re-opened as a muse- um, memorial and education cen- ter for young students and adults For visitors from abroad, the center is further evidence that a democratic, united Germany is "biting the bullet" of its own re- cent past. The center is one of a score of "Gedenkstaette" — public places of remembrance — in Berlin which remind its peo- ple of the horrors of the Nazi years. It is a 15-minute drive from Wannsee to Potsdam. Until the collapse of the Wall in 1989, a heavily-guarded frontier blocked passage between Wannsee, at the southwest corner of what was then West Berlin, and the sovereign territory of what was then East Germany. Now, mo- torists cross unhampered the narrow bridge over the Havel River into Potsdam, the 1,000- year-old imperial city in which Frederick the Great bad built Sanssouci, his Prussian version of Versailles, and from which Frederick's descendant, Kaiser Wilhelm H, last of the Hohen- zollern dynasty, had been exiled at the end of World War I.