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M

ore than a thousand
cookbooks arepubT
lished each year, all de-
signed to lure the
serious and not-so-serious cooks.
How to choose? First, identify
what the book will be used for
and then how comfortable you
are in the kitchen. Do you want
to curl up in an armchair for a
good read or do you need prac-
tical, self-help to put delicious
meals on the table?
Broadly speaking, cookbooks
fall into three categories. First
comes the picture book "tome"
illustrating a country, its in-
habitants and food culture, all
in glorious color. Those are the
coffee-table cookbooks, too beau-
tiful and expensive to soil with
buttery fingers.
Second, there are the books
for cooks, searching for exciting
ideas to fit in with home and ca-
reer. Third, there are books for
young singles, away from home.
This group likes sophisticated
food, good nutrition is of prime
importance and the individuals
want to learn to cook ... and cut
back on eating out, which can
wreck the budget.
On Your Own by Alice Stern,
published by Straight Arrow
Press (1996) is geared to the lat-
ter category. A neat little com-
pendium with a simple but
striking cover, it's packed with
fail-safe recipes, some plain and
some fancy, plus plenty of prac-
tical advice. It addresses a seg-
ment of our society that has
been largely ignored — namely,
young singles with little culinary
experience but who want to cook
something other than spaghet-
ti and bottled sauce. Besides
recipes, this book contains a
wealth of essential information
your mother never taught you.
Setting up the kitchen and
pantry, quick and easy hints for
performing routine tasks, and a
description of cooking terms are
all set out where they're most
needed — at the beginning of
the book.
Most recipes are complete on
one page; preparation, cooking
times and number of servings
are included up top to read be-
fore you start.
Although this is not classified
as a kosher cookbook, the dish-
es that don't conform are easily
adapted for the kosher kitchen.
For example, nondairy creamer
may be substituted for cream or
milk, and kosher surimi
(Alaskan white pollack) for .the
few recipes containing shellfish.

What happens when the An-
gel of Anglaise meets the Guru
of Ganache? A luscious collab-
oration, as in An Alphabet of
Sweets, published by Rizzoli In-
ternational Publications, 1996,
$15.95. This is the creation of
celebrated chef/author Marcel
Desaulniers and nationally ac-
claimed folk artist Nancy
Thomas, a.k.a. the Angel of
Anglaise.
Ms. Thomas, a self-taught
artist, has cleverly captured the
wit and originality of the recipes
of Mr. Desaulniers, the Guru of
Ganache, and the award-win-
ning author of such sinful epis-
tles as Death by Chocolate and
Desserts to Die For. Each recipe
from Anglaise to Zabaglione is
matched with a folk art, full-col-
or illustration. The text is filled
with humor and offbeat wit.

CHINESE VEGETABLE
SOUP (MEAT)

SERVES: 4

PREPARATION TIME: 15
MINUTES

COOKING TIME: 15
MINUTES

THE PERFECT STARTER
FOR AN ASIAN-STYLE
MEAL.

6 cups chicken broth
1 cup sliced mushrooms
1 cup broccoli florets
1 cup bean sprouts
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground
pepper
2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed
with 1/4 cup cold water
1 egg, beaten
7 ounces tofu, cut into 1/2-inch
cubes
3 green onions, chopped

1. Pour broth into a medium-
size pot. Add mushrooms, broc-
coli, bean sprouts, soy sauce,
vinegar, sesame oil and pepper.
Stir to combine. Simmer for 10
minutes.
2. Increase heat to medium
high and add cornstarch mix-
ture. Cook for 3 minutes, stir-
ring occasionally, until soup is
thickened.
3. Stir soup in one direction
and slowly drizzle in the egg.
When the egg is set, add the
tofu. Remove from heat and let
sit, covered, for 2 minutes.
4. Garnish with green onions.

COOKBOOK page 122