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BERKLEY TOURS AND TRAVEL, INC. 559-8620 OR 1-800-875-TOUR (8687) TRAVEL BARGA R INS ,Rt COLORADO $ from LAS VEGAS Free Room at Maxim Hotel 99 90 Pay S249.90* for air. room is FREE! r.tip.p. Nonstops Mo/Fr 4, 7, 10. 4 nights - 12/15, 12/16, 1/6. 1/12 3 nights - 1/3. 12/12, 12/13 ORLANDO $ 99 90 from r.t./p.p. 11 or 14 nights For additional dates, please inquire! Saturday Nonstops Packages from $429.90 ARUBA CANCUN ACAPULCO 9 froSm 329 O Saturday Nonstops 7 nights Packages from $629.90 from 189 9 r.t./p.p. ° Nonstops Sa/Su 7 & 14 nights Packages from $359.90 froSm Traditional. Spiritual. Sensational. KOSHER CROWN HOTEL & BEACH CLUB 4041 Collins Avenue Miami Beach, Florida 33140 Toll Free (800) 327-8163 Fax (305) 673-1612 CALL NOW FOR OUR WINTER EARLY BIRD SPECIAL! 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BARBARAOGSTONE MOTOR COACH TOURS - AIR AND CRUISE TRAVEL * WE HAVE CONSUMER BANKRUPTCY INSURANCE * AL HARRIS TatirdROFF 28585 Telegraph Rd. 353-1300 ISRAEL '799 Or Less (Roundtrip from Detroit) METRO DETROIT ISRAEL EXPERT 810-FLY EL-AL arly morning in October in North America. She explains this Florence, Italy. It's cold and was part of the Egyptian culture wet from the morning dew. and that the majority of the peo- The taxi is late for my ple buried here were Shephardic meeting with Silvia Baldi, a non- Jews. One of these large edifices Jew who happens to be an au- has the name Levi still promi- thority on Jewish life in Florence. nently displayed with the date We are meeting at the Jewish 1875 still discernable. Cemetery on Viale Arios- I ask about a recurrent ta #16. Behind the 10-feet- A "chap el" on theme on many of the tall gate is a sight and the grou nds of headstones: two hands the Flor ence memory I won't forget. and water being poured cemet ery. When the gate is over them. Silvia ex- pushed open, I see what plains that this was the looks like an abandoned lot with fashion for Shephardic Jews at tilted, damaged headstones. I ex- the end of the 18th century and pected to find manicured lawns symbolic of the cleanliness of and well-tended graves consid- spirit. ering this was the only Jewish Even the Cohen family's Coat cemetery for 300 years. of Arms is unusual with it's Silvia and I walk through Moorish styling and symbols and grass and weeds that haven't eight-pointed star. been tended to in years. Even "There were two kinds of Jews though a small, somewhat down- in Florence," Silvia tells me. at-the-mouth house is on the "There were the Italian Jews; grounds with residents who are and in 1492, the Shephardic Jews supposed to be looking after this arrived from Spain and Portu- historical Jewish location, a gal, even North Africa and guess would be that it hasn't Turkey." seen a mower or flower planter But the first Jews, she notes, for several years. It is, howev- came before Christ. er, a serene site, hidden away One of the last burials was in from the bustle of Florence. 1897 when this cemetery was The cemetery land was bought abandoned and new land was by the Jewish population in 1777 bought on the outskirts of Flo- and is the oldest sign of Jewish rence. The Jewish population life in Florence. 'The Jewish pop- is now less than 1,000 people ulation, then was about 800," Sil- while before the war it numbered via offers. over 3,000, still very small in Fascists took over the adjoin- comparison to the very large ing land which was part of the city's population of 500,000. cemetery at the end of the 18th I come upon a headstone century, unconcerned that this which seems oddly out of place. was consecrated land. It's modern, relatively clean and We walk among the head very legible. It's that of an 18- stones; there is no path. The old- year- old girl, Vera Bolaffio, who est tomb still available dates was killed during the bombing back to 1825. It has the name in 1944. This was the very last Lampronti and Silvia tells me he burial that took place here. was a physician. I go on to get a closer look at What strike me as odd are the the three opulent chapels. The opulent obelisks and large Servadio family's is from 1875 in chapel-like structures atypical neo-Egyptian style. There are in most Jewish cemeteries in columns and a Coat of Arms in- tJ