lost family life was compounded
in the smells and taste of this
lemon-almond-chocolate cake.

MINA PACHTER'S CAKE
(DAIRY) (FROM IN
MEMORY'S KITCHEN, re-
created by Bianca Steiner
Brown)

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons
unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 egg yolks
2 egg whites, stiffly beaten
31/2 oz. semisweet chocolate,
melted and cooled
3 tablespoons strong coffee
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
11/4 cups ground hazelnuts
11/2 cups all-purpose flour

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Light-
ly grease and flour 8-inch spring-

passion for all things culinary.
She literally swoons over the un-
limited number of ethnic cuisines
available in American cities —
"succulent chicken braised in rich-
ly spiced sauce" or favorite piero-
gi, "dumplings filled with mashed
potato and slathered with sour
cream."
In The Universal Kitchen, her
latest book, she zooms in on the
similarities rather than differ-
ences between the foods and cook-
ing techniques of countries all
across the world. In the intro-
duction, Ms. Rozin discusses how
cuisines have evolved to adapt to
lifestyles, contemporary appli-
ances, and a dizzying line of new
products. Recipes are divided into
10 chapters, beginning with
"Meat on a Stick." A deliciously
different chapter is 'The
Condimental Extra —
the stylish little extra that
no one needs and every-
one wants."
Recipes are straight-
forward and uncompli-
cated. Though this is not
a kosher cookbook, there
are plenty of meatless
ethnic recipes clearly
marked in the index with
an asterisk (*) and dish-
es such as My Grandma's
Unburnt Cucumber Sal-
ad (where Ms. Rozin's
Jewish heritage is evi-
dent) and Spiced Lentil
and Golden Orzo Salad will add
new flavors and adventure to the
kosher cook's repertoire. I thor-
oughly enjoyed The Universal
Kitchen, both as a read and for a
kitchen adventure.

form pan.
2. In large bowl of electric mix-
er, cream together butter and sug-
ar until light and fluffy. Add eggs
and yolks, one at a time, beating
well after each addition.
3. Beat in chocolate, and coffee,
1 tablespoon at a time, alternat-
ing with half ground hazelnuts,
flour and the lemon peel. Fold in
beaten egg whites, mixing alter-
nately with remaining ground
hazelnuts and flour.
4. Pour batter into prepared
cake pan, smoothing the top. Rap,
pan twice on hard surface to ex-
pel any air bubbles. Bake 30-35
minutes until toothpick inserted
in center comes out clean.
5. Let cake cool in pan on wire
rack 10 minutes. Invert on rack
and let cool completely. Bianca's
suggestions to complete: Spread
with strained apricot preserves.
Glaze with chocolate icing or
sprinkle cake with confectioner's
sugar and serve with lightly
sweetened whipped cream.
• The Universal Kitchen by
Elisabeth Rozin (published by
Viking, $27.95). Ms. Rozin is the
ultimate culinary anthropologist
who tells it like it is — solid facts
with inimitable dry wit.
It's evident Ms. Rozin has a

DISCOVER THE DIFI±RENCE

for

Yad Ezra

CRANBERRY FOOL
(DAIRY) (FROM
ELISABETH ROZIN'S
THE UNIVERSAL
KITCHEN)

1 1/2 cups fresh cranberries
1/4 cup orange juice
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or
orange liqueur
11/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
fresh mint sprigs for garnish

1. In small saucepan, combine
cranberries, orange juice and 112
cup sugar. Bring to simmer, then
cook, uncovered over moderate
heat, stirring occasionally, for
about 10-15 minutes. Mixture
should be soft and thick. Remove
from heat and cool.
2. Puree cranberries with
Grand Marnier or orange liqueur
in blender or food processor.
3. Whip cream with vanilla and
2 tablespoons sugar until stiff.
Fold gently but thoroughly into
cranberry puree.
4. Spoon into individual serv-
ing glasses or cups. Chill thor-

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