lost family life was compounded
in the smells and taste of this
lemon-almond-chocolate cake.

passion for all things culinary.
She literally swoons over the un-
limited number of ethnic cuisines
available in American cities —
MINA PACHTER'S CAKE
"succulent chicken braised in rich-
(DAIRY) (FROM IN
ly spiced sauce" or favorite piero-
MEMORY'S KITCHEN, re-
gi, "dumplings filled with mashed
created by Bianca Steiner
potato and slathered with sour
Brown)
cream."
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons
In The Universal Kitchen, her
unsalted butter, softened
latest book, she zooms in on the
3/4 cup granulated sugar
similarities rather than differ-
2 large eggs
ences between the foods and cook-
2 egg yolks
ing techniques of countries all
2 egg whites, stiffly beaten
across the world. In the intro-
31/2 oz. semisweet chocolate,
melted and cooled
duction, Ms. Rozin discusses how
3 tablespoons strong coffee
cuisines have evolved to adapt to
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
lifestyles, contemporary appli-
1 1/4 cups ground hazelnuts
ances, and a dizzying line of new
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
products. Recipes are divided into
1. Preheat oven to 350F. Light-
10 chapters, beginning with
ly grease and flour 8-inch spring- "Meat on a Stick." A deliciously
different chapter is "The
Condimental Extra —
the stylish little extra that
no one needs and every-
one wants."
Recipes are straight-
forward and uncompli-
cated. Though this is not
a kosher cookbook, there
are plenty of meatless
ethnic recipes clearly
marked in the index with
an asterisk (*) and dish-
es such as My Grandma's
Unburnt Cucumber Sal-
ad (where Ms. Rozin's
Jewish heritage is evi-
dent) and Spiced Lentil
and Golden Orzo Salad will add
form pan.
new flavors and adventure to the
2. In large bowl of electric mix- kosher cook's repertoire. I thor-
er, cream together butter and sug- oughly enjoyed The Universal
ar until light and fluffy. Add eggs Kitchen, both as a read and for a
and yolks, one at a time, beating kitchen adventure.
well after each addition.
3. Beat in chocolate, and coffee, CRANBERRY FOOL
1 tablespoon at a time, alternat- (DAIRY) (FROM
ing with half ground hazelnuts, ELISABETH ROZJI'S
flour and the lemon peel. Fold in THE UNIVERSAL
beaten egg whites, mixing alter- KITCHEN)
nately with remaining ground 1 1/2 cups fresh cranberries
hazelnuts and flour.
1/4 cup orange juice
4. Pour batter into prepared 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
cake pan, smoothing the top. Rap 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier or
liqueur
pan twice on hard surface to ex- 1 orange
1/2 cups heavy cream
pel any air bubbles. Bake 30-35
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
minutes until toothpick inserted fresh mint sprigs for garnish
in center comes out clean.
1. In small saucepan, combine
5. Let cake cool in pan on wire cranberries, orange juice and 1/2
rack 10 minutes. Invert on rack cup sugar. Bring to simmer, then
and let cool completely. Bianca's cook, uncovered over moderate
suggestions to complete: Spread heat, stirring occasionally, for
with strained apricot preserves. about 10-15 minutes. Mixture
Glaze with chocolate icing or should be soft and thick. Remove
sprinkle cake with confectioner's from heat and cool.
sugar and serve with lightly
2. Puree cranberries with
sweetened whipped cream.
Grand Marnier or orange liqueur
• The Universal Kitchen by in blender or food processor.
Elisabeth Rozin (published by
3. Whip cream with vanilla and
Viking, $27.95). Ms. Rozin is the 2 tablespoons sugar until stiff.
ultimate culinary anthropologist Fold gently but thoroughly into
who tells it like it is — solid facts cranberry puree.
with inimitable dry wit.
4. Spoon into individual serv-
It's evident Ms. Rozin has a ing glasses or cups. Chill thor-

December

is food month at

DISCOVER THE DIFFERENCE

for

Yad Ezra

Bring in 3 boxes of pasta

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and get an extra

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